Baobab grove in Chobe National Park

We woke around 5 am then had a cup of tea before getting up and dressed. As always, a guide came by at 6 am to wake us then we walked to the breakfast area at 6:30. This and other daily procedures are nearly identical across the three Desert and Delta Safari sites we visited in Botswana. We slept fairly well although we could hear a lion roaring from time to time.

Mary & Cindy in the Land Cruiser

At breakfast, we wished Mark and Cindy a happy anniversary then enjoyed a good breakfast. I had bran flakes, yogurt and muffin. We loaded into the truck at 7 am.

Cindy had requested that our guide, Conrad, take us to a fresh elephant kill so Conrad took us on a two hour ride to the place where the kill was reported. When we were near, we saw over 40 vultures of several species sitting in trees. However, as we reached the kill site, we saw a couple of Chobe National Park rangers who told us to avoid the area until they could make a report on the elephant’s cause of death.

Large male kudu

Since the morning plans had changed, we drove to several water holes, some of which were nearly dried up. We saw a large male kudu at one water hole and some elephants wading in what was left of another. We also saw some artificial water holes that were created by the National Park. These have well pumps powered by solar arrays that keep water in five water holes across Chobe National Park.

Wildebeest

Conrad drove us across an ancient lake bed that is a marsh in the wet season. Today it was dry and covered by tall grasses. Much of the tall grass is what they call turpentine grass because of the smell. This grass is very water and rot resistant, so it is used to thatch roofs. The park doesn’t interfere with grass fires in the area since they are a natural way of maintaining the grassland ecosystem. Almost all fires are caused by lightning in the rainy season. We saw no wildlife in our drive across the meadow except several Kori bustards.

Kratom

Conrad pointed out an interesting look plant called kratom. This immediately interested us since we have seen kratom advertised in the windows of vape shops and other stores in sketches areas across the US. Kratom has an opioid-like effect when smoked or chewed. We learned, however, that this African kratom is unrelated to the Asian tree that is used for quasi-legal recreational drug use.

Steinbock (or Steenbock)

As soon as we re-entered the savanna ecosystem after crossing the meadow we saw lots of game including impala, wildebeest, tsessebe, stienbok (or steenbock), kudu, giraffes and zebras. As we drove, the temperature rose, and we were all shedding clothes until we were down to shorts and T-shirts.

We arrived back at Savute Safari Lodge by 11:30 so we had time to shower and change clothes before lunch at 12 o’clock. I used the outdoor shower again and found it to be refreshing.

Outdoor shower

Lunch was small lamb pies, Tuscan chicken, corn pudding and a variety of cheese and fruit. As always, the meal was perfectly prepared and elegantly presented. Mark and I had a local beer with lunch then I took a gin and tonic back to the tent.

As we relaxed in the tent we did our language lessons, read and updated the trip journal while several kudu lounged in the area outside our tent. Cindy came over after her nap for a game of cribbage with Mary.

We walked to the dining area for high tea at 3 pm. There was toast with salmon and passion fruit tarts. I had a glass of tonic water as we put our gear in the Land Cruiser for our afternoon game drive.

Jane, John, Conrad, Mary, Cindy, Mark & Steve with the baobab trees

Conrad drove us to an area where baobab trees are growing. These 14 trees are all over 1000 years old. We walked around the trees and admired their ability to survive even after significant damage over the centuries. Conrad told us that because of damage from the increasing elephant population, baobab trees are becoming less and less common. Since baobabs hold a great deal of water in the tree trunks, elephants dig at the trees with their tusks to access the water. These few trees have been protected by large rocks that have been piled around the tree roots. Conrad says that it is presumed that the Bushmen were protecting the trees hundreds of years ago. I did an Earthcache with the baobabs then we posed for group photos with John and Jane.

Sundown in Chobe National Park

After leaving the baobab trees, we drove around looking for interesting wildlife and birds. We saw a roan antelope and several birds that we hadn’t seen before. Around 5:30 Conrad found a place for our sundown happy hour. We enjoyed gin and tonic or beer as we watched the sunset. As we were finishing our drinks, a group of impala came through with several male animals fighting. We also saw a pair of bat eared foxes who came over curiously.

We came back to the camp where we cleaned up for dinner. We went down early for a drink and to sit by the fire. There were several new people who had just arrived this afternoon.

Elephant damaged baobab tree

Dinner was kudu streak, pork roast, millet, black rice and caramel cream for dessert. Of course , we have seen wild kudu here in Botswana but we were very surprised that the steaks were so tender and flavorful. It reminded us a lot of venison tenderloin. In fact, the cook referred to the kudu steaks as venison. We chatted at dinner with John and Jane who have been our travel mates while we have been at Savute. We also enjoyed meeting Hanna and Markus from Germany. She was very pleasant, and it was fun to talk about our favorite German food and places we like to visit in Germany.

Mark and Cindy had a private table in a small outdoor nook for their anniversary dinner.

Savute region of Chobe National Park

We slept well despite being awakened by elephants trumpeting, lions roaring then hornbills squawking after 5 am. The wake-up came at 6 am but we did not need an escort to go to breakfast since there is enough light by 6:30. I had cold cereal, yogurt and a muffin for breakfast.

The morning was very cool, so cool we could see our breath. We were bundled in layers for the morning game drive. Conrad gave us warm water bottles they call “bush babies” and small lap blankets to help keep us warm. The forecast was for temperatures in the 80s later today. We knew we would be shedding layers throughout the morning.

We were off in the truck with Conrad by 7:30 and drove to a place where a large adult male lion was napping in the shade near a road. The lion wasn’t concerned about us in the truck and continued sleeping in the shade. The lion’s rear was stuck up in the air which wasn’t the photo we were looking for so we moved on.

Lions at a waterhole in Chobe National Park

Conrad took us by some places to see birds we hadn’t seen then he drove to an area where a group of lions were walking to a waterhole. There were two lionesses with five cubs of varying ages followed by an adult male lion. The cubs tussled and romped at the water’s edge while the male watched over his family. It was quite a scene.

Lion cub playing with a reflection in a waterhole

We enjoyed watching the lion cubs playing with their reflection in the waterhole. We loved that the lion cubs seemed just like any group of rowdy domestic kittens. The male lion made his way over and sat majestically overlooking the females and cubs in the morning sun.

Baobab tree

As we continued our game drive, we passed the baobab tree at a place where safari groups may take a stretch break. The location has little brush and affords a vantage point to see potential dangers with plenty of advance warning. We passed the usual impalas, zebras and giraffes when we saw a tiny steinbock. The steinbok is a tiny antelope type animal that is well adapted for the Kalahari desert getting most of its water from the jasmine vines that it eats. A full grown adult steinbock is about the size of a collie.

Kori bustard

We saw a number of interesting birds including Botswana’s national bird, the Kori bustard, which is a large heavy bird. This bird can weigh up to 25 pounds and has a wingspan of up to 9 feet. We stopped at the huge baobab tree that we passed earlier. This tree is thought to be 1500 years old. Baobab trees are subjected to significant damage from elephants scraping the trees with their tusks to get water. The recent increase in the elephant population has led to a dramatic decline in baobab trees.

Yellow-billed hornbill

While we were parked at the tree, we had a cup of tea and a rusk (cookie) as we watched yellow and red hornbills lurking nearby to snatch any crumbs that may be dropped. We were down to shorts and t shirts by now in the warm African sun.

We drove by the bush where we had seen the sleeping lion earlier but saw that he was no longer there. In the late morning sun, the bush no longer offered much shade. However, we found him less than a quarter of a mile away sitting up in a larger shady spot. We took a number of photos of the impressive lion then moved on.

We saw some large groups of helmeted Guineafowl. One group of 50 or more birds was around a water hole that is rapidly drying up. The guineas were all fighting and raising a dust. They were very entertaining.

On the way out of the park we stopped at the park entrance where the impala carcass hidden high in the large camel pod acacia tree. Conrad suggested that we take advantage of the bathrooms there.

We drove a short distance to a place where the camp staff prepared lunch. We had beef stroganoff, grilled beef sausage, chicken wings, vegetable quiche as well as an open bar. It was a very nice stop.

We drove the short distance back to camp where we relaxed, did our language lessons and caught up on the journal. I wrote postcards to the grandsons, and Mary purchased postage for the cards.

After high tea at 3 pm, we met Conrad by the truck at 3:30. The afternoon was near 80 degrees, but we took additional layers of clothing because we knew that the temperature would go down quickly once the sun started setting.

Banded mongoose

We drove through an area where we saw a lot of birds that we hadn’t seen in Africa. Mary and Cindy kept checking the new birds off in their checklists provided by Desert and Delta Safaris. We came upon a very large colony of banded mongoose. We estimated that we could see over 50 individuals. They were pretty cute. We had seen the slender mongoose on our morning drive. The slender mongoose hunts snakes by getting into their burrows. The mongoose is resilient to even the deadliest venom.

We were particularly taken with the crimson breasted shrike. The colors of the bird looked almost artificial. We saw several magpie shrieks and some shaft tailed shrieks.

Bushman paintings

We drove to the location of the Bushman Paintings that are 1000 year old pictographs on the basalt in the cliffs. The paintings depict a kudu, antelope, elephant and a hippo. Conrad and I looked for a geocache near the paintings but came up empty with our search.

As we were leaving, Conrad suggested that the lion family may be returning to the waterhole as evening approached. When we arrived at the water hole the group of lionesses, cubs and one male lion walked toward the water hole. Rather than going to the water, they turned and walked into the bush. There was another male lion spotted on the rocks, so we sat in the truck with our gin and tonic and waited. We started adding layers as the sun was going down and the air temperature dropped.

Male lion

As the second male lion got up and started walking it was apparent that the lion had an injury to a front foot. He limped with every step. It made me think of the Greek folk tale about Androcles and the Lion in which a boy removed a thorn from a lion’s paw. Years later, the lion repaid Androcles by saving his life.

Conrad believed that the lion’s injury was not serious and that he would recover in a few days. He assured us that the injured male lion would be able to eat at the kills until he was able to hunt again.

Our tent at Savute Safari Lodge

The drive back to camp was short so we returned to our tents to prepare for dinner. Guides came to escort us at 7:15 so we had drinks and talked about our day. As we have come to expect at the Desert and Delta Safaris locations, camp staff came out to sing and dance before dinner. As Mary thought, there are as many staff as patrons at the camp. We counted 24 guests in the camp that day and could see 25 staff just at dinner and we knew several of the guides weren’t there. Dinner was ox tail stew, roasted chicken thighs, millet, African risotto, mixed vegetables, and cooked spinach.

Dinner at Savute Safari Lodge

Since we were partnered with John and Jane from the UK, I enjoyed a glass of 18 year old Glenfiddich Scotch. This Scotch sells for nearly $200 around us, and John had no problem drinking a good deal of the bottle. Although currently living in England, John is a native Scot. I found the scotch to be pleasant enough, but it lacked the character and complexity of a good Kentucky bourbon.

At 8 pm we were escorted to our tents where we read, wrote in the journal and made a few telephone calls.

Leaving Okavango Delta and arriving at Chobe National Park

A couple of monkeys fighting under our tent’s deck woke us at 3 am. Then at 5:30 am a hippo bellowed behind our tent before shaking like a wet dog. We gave up then and got up to do last minute packing for our flight to Savute Safari Lodge in Chobe National Park. We went to breakfast at 6:30 then met with Zambo to attempt fishing in the lagoon beside the lodge. Mary went along to read while Mark and I fished.

Zam had us fishing with a chunk of beef on a large hook under a small bobber. Fish were jumping all around us, but our bait or technique was not attracting a bite. Both Mark and I had some nibbles from small fish, but neither of us had any serious bites. After about an hour we gave up and returned to our tents.

Outdoor shower next to our tent

I showered in the tent’s outdoor shower rather than the adjacent indoor shower. The shower was very brisk in the midwinter morning here in the southern hemisphere. After a shower and change of clothes, I felt much better.

We gathered our bags and placed them outside our tent.  We walked around the property while we waited to join our guide, Joe, for the boat ride back to the airport at 9:30. While we sat, we chatted with Zambo and enjoyed the morning.

Flying from Okavango to Savute

We loaded into the boat making our way to the airstrip, which was about a 20 minute ride for us. We took the last four seats on the 12 seat Cessna airplane. Everyone onboard exited at the Savute stop which was less than an hour flight. Like our previous bush flights, the aircraft are older but seem to be well maintained and the bush pilots appear to be well trained and knowledgeable.

We were picked up by our guide, Conrad, for the short trip to camp. Our travel mates for the next four days will be John and Joan from near Manchester, England. When we arrived at the camp we were greeted by the staff and shown around the property. Since all three camps where we have stayed so far are managed by Desert and Delta Safaris, they are much the same as Xakanaxa and Xugana.

Kudu at the waterhole behind Savute Safari Lodge

Since a large group had just departed, we waited in the common areas while our rooms were cleaned and prepared. The lodge has a large viewing area with a view of a large water hole that attracts impalas, giraffes, Cape buffalo and other animals. Like the other camps there is an open bar and dining area.

Lunch was chicken pot pie, curried ground beef casserole called bobotie and a vegetable quiche. Sliced apricot bread was the dessert. There was the usual assortment of cheeses, fresh fruit and beverages. As we ate, we watched a variety of local wildlife at the nearby water hole. We watched wildebeest, kudu, impala, elephants and a Cape buffalo.

Steve relaxing at our tent in Savuti Safari Lodge

This lodge is definitely the highest accommodation that we have encountered on this trip. The tents are very nice with a sitting area, bed with mosquito netting, bathroom, indoor and outdoor showers as well as a shady porch overlooking the savanna. We read and relaxed until time for our afternoon game drive at 3:30.

Chobe National Park, where Savute Safari Lodge is located, is Botswana’s oldest national park, established in 1967. At 4,500 square miles, it is the nation’s third largest national park after Central Kalahari Game Reserve and Gemsbok National Park. The area was originally inhabited by the Bushmen people. Although a national park was proposed in 1931, heavy tsetse fly infestations delaying the designation as a national park.

Adult male lion in Chobe National Park

Neither of us were interested in high tea today, so we skipped it and went straight to the Land Cruiser. Our guide, Conrad, took us past elephants, zebras and many impalas and kudus. He had a radio message that there were lions nearby so he took us there but the male and female lions were both sleeping in the tall grass. We moved on to spot other wildlife including a few hippos and a huge male kudu. We stopped at a place to watch the sunset and have a happy hour beverage. A pair of jackals were nearby feeding on something in the grass.

Black backed jackal

After a stretch break and a gin and tonic, we drove back to the lions. Shortly after we arrived, the lioness awoke and woke the male. They started walking into the savanna away from the roads. We took some snapshots of them walking away as additional trucks of tourists arrived. This is an everyday event for the lions. The poor cats can’t get rest for the photographers like us looking for a picture.

Conrad drove us back to camp where we had about 45 minutes before dinner. Mary showered, and I tuned in the Wednesday horticulture webinar. The webinars are hosted by the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture and are held at 12:30 most Wednesday afternoons. That is 6:30 pm here in Central Africa. We had to set our VPN to a point in the US to be allowed to enter the webinar. We enjoyed the session on wreath making until we were called to dinner at 7:15. A guide escorted us to the lodge area since wild animals frequently can be found on the property.

Firepit overlooking the waterhole at Savute

Before dinner, we sat around the fire with John and Joan, our travel mates from Manchester. We shared stories of prior trips and possible trips to come. The appetizer was mushroom risotto. Dinner was lamb with mint jelly, fried fish, couscous, creamed polenta and broccoli with cheese. Dessert was apple tort with whipped cream. Everything was delicious.

After dinner, we asked Conrad to escort us to our rooms where we went to bed at 9:30 to be ready for tomorrow’s morning game drive.

Exploring the Okavango Delta's waters at Xugana Island Lodge

Moses the giant Nile crocodile

We slept well although the hippos roared most of the night in the stream that our room overlooks. We were awake by 5:30 and were dressed before the 6 am wake-up call. We were escorted to breakfast and had porridge, dry cereal, fruit and breads. We met with travel mates, Alex and Rebecca, as well as our guide, Joe, at the boats to go for a wildlife walk which was about a 30 minute boat ride away. We were also joined by Zambo, a shooter. He and Joe were armed with H & H .375 rifles in case of danger. We saw the large crocodile, Moses, on the boat ride as well as several colorful bird species.

Zambo with a hippo skull

We got out of the boat and walked single file around the island observing elephants, red lechwe, wart hogs, baboons and many birds. Joe told us that the big predators are confused by people walking in a single file line about a meter apart. The animals may see us as a large unfamiliar animal and not be aggressive toward us. Unlike our time at Xakanaxa, we were not able to get close to the animals but observed them from 300 yards away. Zambo showed us the skull of a hippo that had been killed by six lions about 2 years ago.

After returning to the boat, we made the return back to Xugana Island Lodge where we had lunch of kofta, fish, lentils and fresh fruit. After lunch, we relaxed, did language lessons and caught up on the journal. We watched the stream behind our tent for interesting birds and were amused by the several banded mongoose playing among the tents.

Red lechwe

As usual, high tea was at 3 pm with small chicken sandwiches and semisweet brownies. Mark and I chatted with a couple from New Jersey who were a bit dissatisfied with wildlife viewing here at Xugana. Admittedly, we have not seen wildlife as we expected. However, that is not a focus of this camp. This is a water-based camp and appeals to birders and others who are looking at wildlife along the water. They do not have vehicles to seek out wildlife but choose to use dugout canoes and riverboats. Fortunately, the New Jersey family is going to Xakanaxa in a few days where they will see a lot of wildlife up close. We are sure they will enjoy their time there.

Hippo pod in the Okavango Delta

Our guide, Joe, met us at the boat dock where we traveled along the rushes, reeds and papyrus viewing birds and eventually, hippos. Joe told us that if the hippos become especially annoyed, they will charge the boat and have even capsized boats. We saw a lot of hippos of all sizes singly and in family groups. As we were warned, one aggressive hippo surfaced inches from our boat, so we moved away quickly. Joe confirmed what we had heard that hippos were among the deadliest animals in Africa.

African spoonbills

We came upon a large rookery where every imaginable local bird species was nesting. We took a lot of photos of sacred ibis, African spoonbills, storks and darters. We even watched as an African fish eagle attempted to rob nests of hatchlings but was turned away by attacking smaller birds. It was quite a sight.

Sundown in the Okavango Delta

We stopped for happy hour to watch sunset and enjoy gin and tonic or beer to watch the sun go down. Back at camp, we were greeted with scented moist towels. We had become accustomed to the towels at the end of a game drive or other outing. We had a few minutes before dinner, which we used to put away the clean clothing that arrived from the laundry service here.

Our tent at Xuganga Island Lodge

We were picked up for dinner at 7:15 and had a drink from the bar while we waited for the call to dinner. Because the family from New Jersey was very disappointed in the experiences here at Xugana. They called their travel agent and arranged to spend less time here and more at Xakanaxa where they are likely to see more wildlife. They were to leave for Xakanaxa early tomorrow morning.

Inside our tent at Xugana

As before, we were treated to traditional African songs and dances followed by an introduction of the staff and an announcement of the meal offerings. Dinner was beef ribs, grilled fish, pearl barley, glazed carrots and garden salad. Dessert was crème brûlée. Everything was very good. Some of our group had wine, but Mary had tonic water with grapefruit, and I had a local liqueur, Amarula. The liqueur reminded me a lot of the bourbon cream liqueur that we enjoy in Kentucky.

Because we were tired and had a busy day ahead tomorrow traveling to Savute Safari Lodge at Chobe National Park, we went to our tents to prepare for bed.

Leaving Camp Xakanaxa and arriving at Xugana Island Lodge

We awoke at 5:30 to the bellowing of hippos in the river near Camp Xakanaxa so we finished our packing and prepared to leave in the early afternoon. When I got dressed, I discovered the pin to my watch in my trouser pocket. When the spring-loaded pin came out of the band, it must have bounced into my pocket. I was happy to have found it and quickly put my watch back together. Our guide picked us up at 6:30 to go to breakfast and get instructions for checkout and flight to Xugana Island Lodge.

Steve, Cindy, Mark, GB, Mary, Gav & Mel

Breakfast was oatmeal, fruit and homemade breads. We got in the Land cruiser and met GB for the morning game drive. When he asked what we wanted to do, Mel wanted to see sunrise, I said that I wanted good photos of impala and lechwe. Cindy wanted to see the bushes she thought might be acacia. GB drove along a nearby camping area for sunrise then on to the Fourth Bridge of Moremi National Park where saw the impalas and lechwe, zebras and elephants. We saw a large elephant herd and witnessed elephants mating. We especially enjoyed watching a beautiful saddle-billed stork feeding in a marshy area.

Saddlebill stork

We saw lion tracks in the dirt road and followed them for some distance but lost the tracks a few times before eventually finding the lions. GB thought we might find the cheetahs that we had seen over the weekend in the same area. We drove around the area and saw a couple of jackals and knew that the cheetahs must be nearby. Jackals often lurk around cheetahs to go after the remains of a kill after the cheetahs abandon the carcass. After a search, we saw the two male cheetahs lounging in the shade of a termite mound. We took a few photos then started toward the Camp Xakanaxa. When we stopped for tea near a large baobab tree, Cindy found the shrub with long thorns and confirmed that it is an acacia.

Hammerkopf

We arrived back at Camp Xakanaxa for a lunch of chicken skewers with peanut butter sauce and a vegetable lasagna. The homemade seed bread was especially delicious.

After lunch, Gav and I went to the bar for a glass of Amarula, which is a cream liquor made from the fruit of a Botswanan tree. As we finished our drinks, camp staff picked up our bags and loaded them on the truck. We left gratuities for the staff in the tip box at the office. Our party of four along with Gav and Mel got in the truck and GB drove us to the tiny airstrip near the camps. We said our goodbyes to GB and gave him a special tip for his excellence in locating everything that we hoped to see. We flew the short distance to the Okavango region in a tiny bush plane where we were going to Xagana Island Lodge, while Gav and Mel were going to nearby Camp Okavango. We very much enjoyed our outings with Mel and Gav and promised to exchange photos of our trip.

The Xugana Island Lodge staff picked us up and took us to the camp by boat. We boated past a 15 foot Nile crocodile that the staff calls Moses. We were shown to our tents which are only a few months old following the complete renovation of the camp. We met our new trip mates, Alex and Rebecca, from near Birmingham in central England. We will travel together for the next 2.5 days while we are at this camp.

Cindy and Mark in a mokoro

Upon arrival at Xugana Island Lodge, we were taken on a mokoro ride. This replica dugout canoe was the traditional means of travel in the Okavango Delta. Alex and Rebecca, Mark and Cindy, Mary and I got in our mokoro with a guide who poled us along the shallow river where we saw a crocodiles, tiny Angola reed frogs and a variety of birds including the carmine bee-eaters, possibly the most beautiful bird we had ever seen. The calls of some of the Central African birds seem to be everywhere. One of the common ring necked doves made a call that sounded like “work harder,” “move over” or “drink lager” depending on who was describing the call. Mark and I enjoyed the crested barbet that makes a beautiful trilling whistle. Many African birds are named based on their call. For example, the call of the go-away bird says exactly that.

Traditional African songs and dances before dinner

When we arrived back at Xugana Island Lodge, we were met with gin and tonic as we awaited dinner. Before the meal we were treated with an introduction of the staff and a performance of traditional Botswanan songs and dances.  Like at Camp Xakanaxa, there appeared to be more staff at Xugana Island Lodge than there are guests.  This isn't surprising since both camps are operated by Desert and Delta Safaris, who take pains to assure that each guest's needs are met. 

Dinner was an ostrich appetizer, followed by beef stew, roast pork, butternut squash and homemade rolls. Dessert was pudding with ice cream.

Lions and cheetahs at Xukanaxa

Female waterbuck

We were awakened at 5:30 on Father’s Day by a nearby lion roaring. We dressed and had our morning beverages before our guide, GB, came to escort us to breakfast at 6 am. There was a good selection of locally made bread, sliced meats, cold cereals and hot porridge. Mark, Cindy, Gav, Mel, Mary and I were in the Land Cruiser with GB by 6:45. We drove over to a camping area to watch sunrise and saw a lot of elephant footprints along the road. We drove through a part of the park that we hadn’t visited on Friday or Saturday. We saw a family of warthogs, many impala, giraffes, lechwe, and elephants. One bull elephant became impatient with us and trumpeted before coming at us. Fortunately, GB was able to get the truck out of the way. We were impressed by a male and female waterbuck moving through the underbrush. These animals are larger than most of the hoofed animals that we have seen here and are best identified by a white circle on their rear.

Helmeted guineafowl

GB decided to take us by the recently killed Cape buffalo that we saw yesterday. It appeared that the buffalo had only been partially eaten yesterday and the lions should still be nearby to continue eating the dead animal. Along the way, we passed several flocks of helmeted Guineafowl. These birds are often kept as domestic barnyard fowl in the US although they tend to remain somewhat wild. Large flocks of Guineafowl are found throughout their native range in Central Africa. When we arrived the entrails of the buffalo had been eaten since yesterday, but we were unable to see the lions who were probably nearby sleeping off the meal. A radio call came through that a leopards was spotted about a 30-minute ride from us, so we left quickly heading for the last place it were seen. GB drove through quickly the bumpy roads in the savanna and got us to the area where it was last seen. Circling vultures told us that a kill was nearby. Thanks to GB’s driving, we found the leopard in less than 20 minutes after we left the buffalo carcass While we watched the leopard, a small herd of impala and a few wildebeest approached until they scented the leopard. A jackal kept a respectful distance from the relaxing leopard.  We were impressed by the power of leopards, not only to catch and take down large game animals bit to hold the prey animal in their teeth and climb a tree.  A leopard will cache an impala or similar game high in a tree to protect the kill from hyenas and jackals.

Leopard

We pulled over near a pond where we watched four hippos, three crocodiles and many impalas, wildebeest and birds. GB prepared tea and a snack for us as we relaxed by the pond.

As we left the pond, we spotted a large female lion crouching on a bank. When we approached and looked through binoculars, we saw that there were two adult lionesses and a young adult male lion. GB alerted other guides in the area of the find as we photographed the three lions basking in the sun. About the time we were leaving, a radio call came that two male cheetahs were near us, so we took off and found them reclining in a shady spot with full stomachs. We took a lot of photos of them before starting back toward Camp Xakanaxa.

Preparing an elegant bush lunch

Just before arriving at the camp, we caught the smell of someone barbecuing. It turns out that the camp staff had prepared a surprise meal outside for us. There was a table set up outside and the staff was grilling chicken wings and beef sausages. We had rolls, salads and a choice of wines, beer or mixed drinks with lunch. The staff sang traditional tribal songs and danced while we were served lunch.

Traditional songs and dance before lunch

We came back to camp happy to find that we did not have baboons and vervet monkeys all over our tents. We relaxed as we read and dozed before our afternoon game drive. As always, tea here is served at 3 pm and the game drive is at 3:30.

Baboon

High tea was vegetable mini pizzas, fruit bars and a selection of fresh fruits. GB met us at 3:15 and said that we would have a low impact leisurely drive in the park. We went through an area with a number of birds, then we stopped to watch a band of baboons crossing the road. We saw a few Nile crocodiles, one of which was over 18 feet long. A slender mongoose, small species of mongoose, was climbing a tree. We asked GB lots of questions about the local plants that we have been seeing. Cindy also asked about many of the birds. Mary, Cindy and Mel checked off animals and plants that we have seen over the past three days. As we drove, GB heard on the radio that there were cheetahs visible again, so we drove the short distance to where two male cheetahs were resting in the shade of a termite mound. We took several photos then continued toward Camp Xakanaxa. 

Happy hour drinks and snacks

GB stopped at a pond where we saw crocodiles, hippos and vervet monkeys. GB served happy hour from a rack on the Land Cruiser at the edge of pond. The gin and tonic with (rusk) shortbread made a very happy hour watching African wildlife. We have become very fond of the local Okavango Gin along with Fitch and Leeds Indian Tonic. Vervet monkeys played all around us then went into trees to spend the night. We watched sundown as we enjoyed our drinks and snacks then returned to the camp.

Bushbuck

As we walked through the camp we saw that a bushbuck had entered the area and was grazing in the camp. It just made us think of the game Bushbuck Charms, Viking Ships and Dodo Eggs that Sarah and Emily used to play as children. The bushbuck was a full-grown adult but resembled a young deer.

When we entered our tent, we saw that our laundry had been returned, clean, dry and folded. The room has been straightened, and the mosquito netting had been lowered around the bed. Laundry at the camps is considered a “bush laundry” which is hand washed without a machine, line dried, and ironed.

Oscar the hippo

We were escorted to dinner at 7 pm where we sat at the fire pit and visited with the ladies from California who were on the flight from Maun with us. They had just arrived from their camp in the Okavango Delta. We were interested in hearing about their experiences since we would be going near there for our next camp. At dinner, we met a nice couple from London who just arrived this evening. As I was leaving our tent for dinner, I hooked my watch on the tent and lost a pin holding the watch to the strap. I was aggravated since I like to wear an analog watch when I am out in bright sunlight. Digital watches are not as easy to read in bright conditions. We searched for the pin all around the tent entrance with no success.

Dinner included beef filets, chicken thighs, pasta salad, garden salad and a creamed spinach casserole. The appetizer was butternut squash soup and dessert was chocolate pudding with coffee ice cream. Everything was excellent and the dinner conversation was fun.

We look forward to tomorrow morning’s game drive before we fly out to the next camp at midday.

Game drive in Moremi Game Reserve

We woke at 6 am when our guide, GB, came by the tent announcing the wakeup call. He came back to escort us to breakfast at 6:30. We don’t know GB’s complete name, but he assures us that it is unpronounceable. Breakfast was a porridge unlike any we had ever eaten but was very good. It was made of cooked grain but was finely ground, almost like cream of wheat. There was a lot of fruit and a selection of breads with breakfast that everyone enjoyed.

Zebra grazing in the savanna

The morning was very cool so were were all in layers topped off by a fleece or jacket. GB provided us with a “bush baby” which is a wrapped warm water bottle as well as blankets in the modified Land Cruiser.

Wildebeest, zebras and impalas

We were in the vehicle for our morning game drive by 7:30 and went into the park. As we were boarding, we saw a large warthog inside the camp digging near one of the tents. We passed large herds of elephants, zebras, impalas, and lechwes. Impalas and lechwes are both types of antelope, but the lechwe is adapted to marshy habitat with wider hooves and shorter forelegs. We came upon groups of giraffes, zebras and the young male lion who had been roaring in the night. We saw several hippos in the shallow water and large herds of Cape buffalo and wildebeest. At one stop we saw several ostriches and warthogs. We stopped at a water hole where we saw a tremendous variety of African wildlife all in one place. It reminded us of the African exhibits at zoos in the US. We assumed that the zoo curators gathered all of the animals that are native to the African savanna in put them in one enclosure. However, we saw that these animals live this way naturally in the wild.

Spotted hyena mother and pups

As we were watching the menagerie of animals at the water hole, GB had a radio call that a mother spotted hyena and pups were out. GB raced us there in the jarring Land Cruiser to see the mother hyena with the two pups playing like any domestic dogs. As with other animals we encountered in the park, we stayed in the vehicle where we could get a good view and not be in danger. GB positioned the Land Cruiser to give us an excellent viewpoint.

African wild dogs

GB had a call on the radio that a pack of African wild dogs had been spotted. Since wild dogs are rare and hadn’t been seen in the park for several months, we raced to the area where they were seen. We were fortunate enough to see the group of young dogs lounging in the sun. A few tsessebe started by, causing the dogs to give chase. Tsessebe are the largest and fastest species of antelope and can sustain a speed of 56 miles per hour. However, since the dogs were young and inexperienced, they failed to make a kill. Experienced packs of African wild dogs are reputed to be among the most successful predators on this continent. One of the young dogs had a GPS tracking collar that park rangers use to monitor the population of the African wild dogs.

Third Bridge entrance to Moremi Game Reserve

We made a stop at the Third Bridge entrance to Moremi Game Reserve for tea and snack before heading back to camp. There were several vehicles at the entrance from several of the camps and guide groups. We had a nice visit then continued back toward Camp Xakanaxa for lunch. We saw even more elephants, giraffes, zebras, antelopes and hippos.

Entrance to Camp Xakanaxa

When we got back to camp our tents were surrounded by dozens of baboons and vervet monkeys that scattered when they saw us coming. Several of the female baboons were carrying young on their backs. There were also some smaller monkeys around.

Lunch was a pot pie with ham, vegetable quiche, lentils and a selection of cheese. A choice of wine was available, but I had a gin and tonic made with the good Okavango gin with lunch. We took a rest and changed into cooler clothes for the afternoon outing on a boat.

Malachite kingfisher

After lunch and a break, the six of us cruised through the Khwai River the stream running along the camp. This includes the Xakanaxa Lagoon, GB was excellent at spotting interesting plants and birds then explaining them to us. Some of the highlights included malachite kingfishers, darters (a type of anhinga), pigmy geese, Jacana (Jesus birds) whose large feet make them appear to walk on water.

The malachite kingfisher is one of the most beautiful birds we have ever seen. The tiny bird’s head is a brilliant blue with a red beak. The small pigmy geese were also brightly colored.

Sunset in Moremi Game Reserve

After being on the river for two hours, we pulled to the bank to watch a beautiful African sunset as we sipped gin and tonic snacking on beef sticks and pistachios. It was a perfect ending to a perfect day. We asked GB to do a trip tomorrow much like today.

Elephant warning us away

We were escorted to dinner at 7 pm with traditional African singing and dancing by the Camp Xukanaxa staff. We sat with a group from Guadalajara, Mexico and enjoyed their company. They were a very fun loving group, some of whom may have been a bit overserved with the special tequila that they brought. Some of their group even joined the staff in singing and dancing. We appreciated meeting them. Dinner was lamb and fish with a selection of delicious sides. The lamb was a little tough and dry for our taste, but the Brits found it to be excellent. We enjoyed the local fish that was poached and served with a light sauce. We had a glass of wine with dinner and had a good time chatting about our day.

Since we were very tired and still somewhat jet lagged from the six-hour time difference, we turned in early and slept well.