The morning was very cool, so cool we could see our breath. We were bundled in layers for the morning game drive. Conrad gave us warm water bottles they call “bush babies” and small lap blankets to help keep us warm. The forecast was for temperatures in the 80s later today. We knew we would be shedding layers throughout the morning.
We were off in the truck with Conrad by 7:30 and drove to a place where a large adult male lion was napping in the shade near a road. The lion wasn’t concerned about us in the truck and continued sleeping in the shade. The lion’s rear was stuck up in the air which wasn’t the photo we were looking for so we moved on.
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| Lions at a waterhole in Chobe National Park |
Conrad took us by some places to see birds we hadn’t seen then he drove to an area where a group of lions were walking to a waterhole. There were two lionesses with five cubs of varying ages followed by an adult male lion. The cubs tussled and romped at the water’s edge while the male watched over his family. It was quite a scene.
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| Lion cub playing with a reflection in a waterhole |
We enjoyed watching the lion cubs playing with their reflection in the waterhole. We loved that the lion cubs seemed just like any group of rowdy domestic kittens. The male lion made his way over and sat majestically overlooking the females and cubs in the morning sun.
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| Baobab tree |
As we continued our game drive, we passed the baobab tree at a place where safari groups may take a stretch break. The location has little brush and affords a vantage point to see potential dangers with plenty of advance warning. We passed the usual impalas, zebras and giraffes when we saw a tiny steinbock. The steinbok is a tiny antelope type animal that is well adapted for the Kalahari desert getting most of its water from the jasmine vines that it eats. A full grown adult steinbock is about the size of a collie.
We saw a number of interesting birds including Botswana’s national bird, the Kori bustard, which is a large heavy bird. This bird can weigh up to 25 pounds and has a wingspan of up to 9 feet. We stopped at the huge baobab tree that we passed earlier. This tree is thought to be 1500 years old. Baobab trees are subjected to significant damage from elephants scraping the trees with their tusks to get water. The recent increase in the elephant population has led to a dramatic decline in baobab trees.
While we were parked at the tree, we had a cup of tea and a rusk (cookie) as we watched yellow and red hornbills lurking nearby to snatch any crumbs that may be dropped. We were down to shorts and t shirts by now in the warm African sun.
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| Kori bustard |
We saw a number of interesting birds including Botswana’s national bird, the Kori bustard, which is a large heavy bird. This bird can weigh up to 25 pounds and has a wingspan of up to 9 feet. We stopped at the huge baobab tree that we passed earlier. This tree is thought to be 1500 years old. Baobab trees are subjected to significant damage from elephants scraping the trees with their tusks to get water. The recent increase in the elephant population has led to a dramatic decline in baobab trees.
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| Yellow-billed hornbill |
While we were parked at the tree, we had a cup of tea and a rusk (cookie) as we watched yellow and red hornbills lurking nearby to snatch any crumbs that may be dropped. We were down to shorts and t shirts by now in the warm African sun.
We drove by the bush where we had seen the sleeping lion earlier but saw that he was no longer there. In the late morning sun, the bush no longer offered much shade. However, we found him less than a quarter of a mile away sitting up in a larger shady spot. We took a number of photos of the impressive lion then moved on.
We saw some large groups of helmeted Guineafowl. One group of 50 or more birds was around a water hole that is rapidly drying up. The guineas were all fighting and raising a dust. They were very entertaining.
On the way out of the park we stopped at the park entrance where the impala carcass hidden high in the large camel pod acacia tree. Conrad suggested that we take advantage of the bathrooms there.
We drove a short distance to a place where the camp staff prepared lunch. We had beef stroganoff, grilled beef sausage, chicken wings, vegetable quiche as well as an open bar. It was a very nice stop.
We drove the short distance back to camp where we relaxed, did our language lessons and caught up on the journal. I wrote postcards to the grandsons, and Mary purchased postage for the cards.
After high tea at 3 pm, we met Conrad by the truck at 3:30. The afternoon was near 80 degrees, but we took additional layers of clothing because we knew that the temperature would go down quickly once the sun started setting.
We drove through an area where we saw a lot of birds that we hadn’t seen in Africa. Mary and Cindy kept checking the new birds off in their checklists provided by Desert and Delta Safaris. We came upon a very large colony of banded mongoose. We estimated that we could see over 50 individuals. They were pretty cute. We had seen the slender mongoose on our morning drive. The slender mongoose hunts snakes by getting into their burrows. The mongoose is resilient to even the deadliest venom.
We were particularly taken with the crimson breasted shrike. The colors of the bird looked almost artificial. We saw several magpie shrieks and some shaft tailed shrieks.
We drove to the location of the Bushman Paintings that are 1000 year old pictographs on the basalt in the cliffs. The paintings depict a kudu, antelope, elephant and a hippo. Conrad and I looked for a geocache near the paintings but came up empty with our search.
As we were leaving, Conrad suggested that the lion family may be returning to the waterhole as evening approached. When we arrived at the water hole the group of lionesses, cubs and one male lion walked toward the water hole. Rather than going to the water, they turned and walked into the bush. There was another male lion spotted on the rocks, so we sat in the truck with our gin and tonic and waited. We started adding layers as the sun was going down and the air temperature dropped.
We saw some large groups of helmeted Guineafowl. One group of 50 or more birds was around a water hole that is rapidly drying up. The guineas were all fighting and raising a dust. They were very entertaining.
On the way out of the park we stopped at the park entrance where the impala carcass hidden high in the large camel pod acacia tree. Conrad suggested that we take advantage of the bathrooms there.
We drove a short distance to a place where the camp staff prepared lunch. We had beef stroganoff, grilled beef sausage, chicken wings, vegetable quiche as well as an open bar. It was a very nice stop.
We drove the short distance back to camp where we relaxed, did our language lessons and caught up on the journal. I wrote postcards to the grandsons, and Mary purchased postage for the cards.
After high tea at 3 pm, we met Conrad by the truck at 3:30. The afternoon was near 80 degrees, but we took additional layers of clothing because we knew that the temperature would go down quickly once the sun started setting.
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| Banded mongoose |
We drove through an area where we saw a lot of birds that we hadn’t seen in Africa. Mary and Cindy kept checking the new birds off in their checklists provided by Desert and Delta Safaris. We came upon a very large colony of banded mongoose. We estimated that we could see over 50 individuals. They were pretty cute. We had seen the slender mongoose on our morning drive. The slender mongoose hunts snakes by getting into their burrows. The mongoose is resilient to even the deadliest venom.
We were particularly taken with the crimson breasted shrike. The colors of the bird looked almost artificial. We saw several magpie shrieks and some shaft tailed shrieks.
 |
| Bushman paintings |
We drove to the location of the Bushman Paintings that are 1000 year old pictographs on the basalt in the cliffs. The paintings depict a kudu, antelope, elephant and a hippo. Conrad and I looked for a geocache near the paintings but came up empty with our search.
As we were leaving, Conrad suggested that the lion family may be returning to the waterhole as evening approached. When we arrived at the water hole the group of lionesses, cubs and one male lion walked toward the water hole. Rather than going to the water, they turned and walked into the bush. There was another male lion spotted on the rocks, so we sat in the truck with our gin and tonic and waited. We started adding layers as the sun was going down and the air temperature dropped.
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| Male lion |
As the second male lion got up and started walking it was apparent that the lion had an injury to a front foot. He limped with every step. It made me think of the Greek folk tale about Androcles and the Lion in which a boy removed a thorn from a lion’s paw. Years later, the lion repaid Androcles by saving his life.
Conrad believed that the lion’s injury was not serious and that he would recover in a few days. He assured us that the injured male lion would be able to eat at the kills until he was able to hunt again.
The drive back to camp was short so we returned to our tents to prepare for dinner. Guides came to escort us at 7:15 so we had drinks and talked about our day. As we have come to expect at the Desert and Delta Safaris locations, camp staff came out to sing and dance before dinner. As Mary thought, there are as many staff as patrons at the camp. We counted 24 guests in the camp that day and could see 25 staff just at dinner and we knew several of the guides weren’t there. Dinner was ox tail stew, roasted chicken thighs, millet, African risotto, mixed vegetables, and cooked spinach.
Since we were partnered with John and Jane from the UK, I enjoyed a glass of 18 year old Glenfiddich Scotch. This Scotch sells for nearly $200 around us, and John had no problem drinking a good deal of the bottle. Although currently living in England, John is a native Scot. I found the scotch to be pleasant enough, but it lacked the character and complexity of a good Kentucky bourbon.
At 8 pm we were escorted to our tents where we read, wrote in the journal and made a few telephone calls.
Conrad believed that the lion’s injury was not serious and that he would recover in a few days. He assured us that the injured male lion would be able to eat at the kills until he was able to hunt again.
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| Our tent at Savute Safari Lodge |
The drive back to camp was short so we returned to our tents to prepare for dinner. Guides came to escort us at 7:15 so we had drinks and talked about our day. As we have come to expect at the Desert and Delta Safaris locations, camp staff came out to sing and dance before dinner. As Mary thought, there are as many staff as patrons at the camp. We counted 24 guests in the camp that day and could see 25 staff just at dinner and we knew several of the guides weren’t there. Dinner was ox tail stew, roasted chicken thighs, millet, African risotto, mixed vegetables, and cooked spinach.
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| Dinner at Savute Safari Lodge |
Since we were partnered with John and Jane from the UK, I enjoyed a glass of 18 year old Glenfiddich Scotch. This Scotch sells for nearly $200 around us, and John had no problem drinking a good deal of the bottle. Although currently living in England, John is a native Scot. I found the scotch to be pleasant enough, but it lacked the character and complexity of a good Kentucky bourbon.
At 8 pm we were escorted to our tents where we read, wrote in the journal and made a few telephone calls.
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