Returning home from Germany

Mary and I had our cell phone alarms set for 5 am but, much to our surprise, Peter was already awake and ready to get dressed. We ate a little in the hotel then put our pajamas in our bags then left the Adina Hotel to walk to the Berlin Hauptbahnhof.

Peter finished his breakfast in the Berlin Hauptbahnhof

Once in the train station we bought a couple of pretzels for Peter to have with his hummus for breakfast. The train to the Berlin Flughofen (airport) was only a few minutes from arriving so we didn’t have long to wait. At first the train wasn’t crowded but as we neared the airport, more passengers boarded the light rail. One person appeared to be emotionally disturbed or under the influence of a drug became loud on the train but soon exited the car.

At the airport, we easily checked our three bags then moved to the first security where we got through quickly since we only had one small carry-on each and no unapproved items. We then went to the German exit point where we waited in a long time to present our passports. Once we were at the checkpoint we were approved quickly. When we got in the line only three of the fifteen or so windows were open. Some families were at the window for over 30 minutes. While we were in the line a group of passengers from some Eastern European country started cutting line. We knew that they were not from an EU country or they would have been in an expedited line. Some of the line cutters got through but the ones who were seen by the agent received a severe scolding and sent to the rear of the line. We passed through this checkpoint in less than a minute once we were at the window.


After going into the next room, our passports and boarding passes were checked by an agent from the US then we walked toward the terminal gates but had to pass through another passport check which took a very short time. When going through a checkpoint we would put Peter between us in case of a problem. At one of the checkpoints, photographic recognition was used but the camera clicked on Peter before he was fully in place. He was routed to a desk where a human verified the passport. However, Mary had already passed through with Peter’s passport. Peter and I communicated the issue to a German police officer who got the passport from Mary and straightened things out quickly. At the terminal for our flight, we had a few minutes for a bathroom break and to eat some of the breakfast that we packed. A tall slim man of about 35 years with long hair had been in the lengthy security line with us. While at the gate he was approached by two Berlin police officers, airport security and a representative of Delta Airlines. The police told him that another passenger had reported that his behavior was suspicious and that he needed to have an additional security check and interview. Mary said that she believed that he had been talking to two young girls who were flying back to New York and may have said something that they believed to be inappropriate.

Although we were in group 6 for the flight from Berlin to New York, we boarded quickly, after yet another check of passports and boarding passes. While all of the checks may seem like overkill, we are certainly happy that measures are in place to assure passenger safety. Our assigned seats were in the center section of the Boeing 767-300 so Mary and I had aisle seats with Peter between us. As with the trip to Germany, Peter traveled really well watching the inflight entertainment and snacking on things that we brought for the flight. When the meal was served about 90 minutes into the flight, he even ate most of the chicken curry and rice which is pretty impressive for an eleven-year-old.

When we arrived at JFK Airport in New York around 1 pm, we saw that a flight to Cincinnati was leaving around 2 pm. Our scheduled flight didn’t leave until 6:30 meaning a 5 ½ hour wait in the airport. Mary went to the Delta Airlines desk and unsuccessfully attempted to get on the earlier flight. There was a series of checkpoints and security stops on the way, but we were surprised that we didn’t have to go through customs. Rechecking our bags was quick and easy. Peter has become very skilled at spotting our luggage at the airport. He usually has our bags before we even make it to the carousal.

We walked around the airport, got some food from airport restaurants then sat at the gate while doing some German lessons and reading some eBooks that we had checked out from the library. Peter fell asleep in the seats at our gate and slept hard for almost an hour. We woke him in time to board the flight.

The aircraft from New York to Cincinnati was smaller but we had plenty of legroom. There was no in-flight entertainment but the flight was supposed to take only 90 minutes. However, we were on the taxiway for nearly an hour before takeoff. The cabin appeared to be completely full, and the flight had little turbulence once in the air. Peter slept much of the way while Mary and I read eBooks.

When we arrived at Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky Airport, we were met by Sarah picking Peter up. Sarah and Peter were very happy to see each other. Mark and Cindy were flying out of Cincinnati on Monday morning after a visit to a graduation in West Virginia. They met us at the airport and gave us a ride back to the Hilton where we left our car parked.

Although sleepy, I made the one hour drive from the airport back to the house where we went straight to bed, We would unpack and do laundry on Monday but it was after 11 pm and we had been up since 5 am in Germany which was 11 pm Eastern. We are too old for these 24 hour days!

We had a great time on this trip and having Peter with us made it very special. We wanted this to be his trip and to be something that he will remember about us after we are gone. We wanted him to experience another culture and have a broad perspective. We were very proud of him trying different foods that he had never tried in the US. He was willing to try everything and actually really liked several German food items. We were proud of his manners while traveling especially when he offered his seat on the train to an older person. Although we didn’t put a limit on things he could buy or money he could spend, he was very conservative with his requests and wanted to buy things for his family, especially his brother. He loved the pocket camera that we bought for him before the trip. He took well over 2000 pictures, mostly of himself making faces but a lot of sites that he wanted to remember. We are hopeful that we can have successful travel with his brother and cousins when they complete fifth grade.

Sachenhausen concentration camp

"Works makes you free"

We were up early to get the train to Sachenhausen concentration camp. Breakfast wasn’t started until 7:30 on Saturday at the Adina Hotel. While the breakfast buffet was good, the breakfast at Eden Hotel Wolff in Munich was better. Part of it is that we just like Bavarian food better than food from most other places in Germany.

Wall and barbed wire

After breakfast, we returned to the room to change clothes. Since the Sachenhausen concentration camp is a somber place, we felt that it would be inappropriate to go in shorts and t-shirts. We took a short subway trip to Friedrichstraße then changed to a train going to Oranienburg for 45 minutes. After leaving the Oranienburg station, we caught a bus for a short ride to the concentration camp. This camp housed prisoners who were Jewish, dissenters, work-shy, gypsies, disabled persons, homosexuals, and others considered undesirable by the Nazi government. The museum had chairs with straps where prisoners were beaten, sometimes to death, for infractions of the camp rules. There was a gallows where prisoners were hung while other prisoners were forced to watch as a lesson for conformity to the rules. Most of the barracks are no longer standing since materials for the structures were scavenged after the war. However, the infirmary, kitchen and laundry barracks remain standing.  There was a wall surrounding the camp with guard towers spaced along the wall.  Inside the wall were several layers of barbed wire.

Restored infirmary barracks

The medical care received by prisoners was less about preserving lives than allowing young German doctors to practice on the prisoners. Surgeries were sometimes unnecessarily performed so doctors could get experience. Inmates who died or were killed had their bodies dissected in the mortuary area for the education of the staff. Medical supplies were constantly in shortage for the needs of the prisoners.

Shoe test track surrounding the role call area

Near the area for the twice daily roll call, there was a shoe testing area. Prisoners would be required to wear shoes that we being developed for the German military. These shoes were seldom the correct size for the prisoners. They would be forced to walk many miles around the camp in the shoes so the leaders could assess the quality of the shoes and the durability of the shoes to hold up to a variety of terrain.

Execution trench

Although Sachenhausen wasn’t a death camp on the order of Auschwitz and some of the others, many prisoners were murdered here. Some were beaten to death, others hung and there was an execution trench just outside the barracks. Sometimes prisoners were shackled and shot, other times they would be placed in a device to measure height and a guard would be behind to shoot the prisoner at the base of the skull. There were mass burial areas adjacent to the execution trench for the bodies of those killed. The visit to the camp was a very sobering experience but we were glad that we could expose Peter to the history of the war.

When we left the camp around noon, we saw that the next bus to the Oranienburg station would be at the camp in a little over an hour so we got lunch at a nearby café. Peter had a hot dog that was over a foot long on a large roll. Mary and I had Apfelschorle which is a blend of apple juice and sparkling water. Peter was very pleased with his meal. We have been very happy that he has been adventurous enough to try a variety of German food and has enjoyed many more than we expected.

Poppy blooming outside the Sachenhausen gate

As we waited for the bus, a group from an Italian tour group arrived. They were very loud and mostly rude. Many of them were smoking so we tried to stay upwind from them. Back at the train station in Oranienburg we quickly boarded the train for Fredrichstraße which took less than an hour. While we were on the train an older couple boarded and saw that all of the seats were taken. I gave my seat to the lady. When a man boarded using two canes, Peter offered the man his seat. The gentleman was appreciative but refused the seat. I was very proud of Peter for his concern.

At Fredrichstraße we went up to street level where we found an Aldi market on the lower level of one of the street buildings. Since we were leaving for home early tomorrow, we knew that the Adina Hotel breakfast would be unavailable, so we bought rolls, cold cuts, cheese, hummus and pretzels for breakfast. We also bought several packages of Haribo items including gummy bears. Peter wanted to take them back as gifts. I got a large bottle of Apfelschole to sip this evening before bed as well as in the morning.

After taking a short subway back to Invalidenpark, we went to a small market and got Peter an ice cream to have up in the room before bed. We finished packing, showered and prepared for an early bedtime. Our flight to JFK boarded at 8:50 am and we knew that we would have multiple layers of security to navigate before we get to the gate.

While packing we had to screen Peter’s packing. He had originally packed several drink bottles that we had from prior meals, He had also picked up a pair of Knipex channel lock type pliers someplace. Those items were not permitted in his luggage. We decided to check all of our bags except our backpacks since we would have 5 hours in JFK and there was nothing in the larger bags that was important or valuable. 

Reichstag Building

We decided to take the night tour on the Hop-on, Hop-off bus so we took a streetcar to the meeting point near Potsdamer Platz.  Since we had a little time, we looked for someplace to get a small meal.  We decided on a KFC, Korean Fried Chicken.  We found the chicken to have a lot of fat and gristle, probably wing meat and not especially tasty.  None of us finished the meal.  

Not surprisingly. knowing German precision, the bus left promptly at 6 pm.  Using the earbuds provided, we heard a narrative about each area of Berlin and many of the major buildings and historic locations.  We were back at the meeting spot by 7 pm then caught the streetcar back to Invalidenpark near the Adina Hotel.

After our baths, we went to sleep quickly and slept well.

Travel from Munich to Berlin

Peter and Oma on the ICE to Berlin

After waking at 5:30 we did a few language lessons then made our way to the breakfast area of the Eden Hotel Wolff where we had our usual excellent buffet breakfast for the last time this trip. We have come to enjoy the variety and quality of bread and fruit. We were proud of Peter’s willingness to try new things with an open mind, and he found the Bavarian breakfast to definitely to his liking. Although Bavaria is our favorite part of Germany, there are several things around Berlin that we wanted to see. Checking out of the hotel was quick since the travel agent had pre-paid for our room. The travel agency, to-europe.com, got much better rates on the rooms than we could ever have made on our own.

The Hauptbahnhof is a short walk from our hotel and we found our track quickly. Mary had upgraded us to an ICE train since it makes very few stops and travels at a much higher rate of speed. The other train going from Munich to Berlin (IC train) would take four hours, but the ICE made the trip in less than three hours. Using the information and tickets provided by the travel agent, we found our train car (wagon 28) quickly then got to seats 33, 34 and 36 and found that the seats were around a table with fold out leaves. We shared the table with a pleasant young German man in seat 35.

The five-hour train ride passed quickly since the seats were comfortable and we could get up and move through the train if needed. We made it to the Berlin Hauptbahnhof a little after 1 pm and walked the short distance to the Adina Hotel where we checked into our room on the 4th floor. The room was very nice with a small kitchen, washer and drier, a king sized bed in a separate room and a comfortable side bed in the sitting room.

Brandenburg Gate

After unpacking, we got directions to the nearest post office from the front desk at the Adina Hotel. It cost about $1.25 for each postcard stamp to send expedited to Peter’s parents, Nicholas, his grandfather and to the Ferrell boys. Mary had picked up a guide to the walking tour in Berlin and we made our way to the Brandenburg Gate. This 18th century gate is located on the site of the older city gate constructed around 1670 following the Thirty Years War.

Potsdamer Platz

Because of the many tall buildings in Berlin, Mary’s cell signal was very weak making navigation difficult. After several navigation errors we decided to purchase tickets on the “Hop-on, Hop-off” bus. The price for an unlimited two day pass was $118 euros including a night tour through Berlin at a day of our choosing. We laughed because the young man selling the passes said that he wanted to try to conserve paper but the receipt with all of our passes was about 12 feet long. After printing, he realized that he had failed to give us the 25% discount from the travel agent so he refunded our payment, printed a refund receipt then another 12 feet of receipt. We were issued earbuds that we could plug into jacks providing narration in any of fifteen languages. We took the bus by several locations but didn’t get off until we were at Potsdamer Platz where we decided to explore on our own.

From Potsdamer Platz, we followed the path of the Berlin Wall using cobblestone markers along the streets. When we came to the “Topography of Terror Center” we followed a remaining section of the Berlin Wall taking some snapshots and reading about the history of the wall beginning in 1961 and continuing to the fall in 1989. An interesting exhibit at the center dealt with what Germans knew about the Holocaust and the Nazi propaganda that was passed to German citizens in the 1930s and 40s. Since we were starting to get hungry, we walked back to Potsdamer Platz for dinner.

Peter at the Berlin Wall

The square got its name because it sits at the location where the road to the city of Potsdam passed through the city wall around Berlin. The open square was used for military drills and parades. Potsdamer Platz was completely destroyed during Allied bombing in World War II then was later divided by the Berlin Wall in 1961. The area experienced extensive redevelopment following German in reunification in the 1990s. The first traffic light in Europe was in Potsdamer Platz in 1924. The 100-year-old traffic light remains on display in Potsdamer Platz.

Peter with a currywurst

There were a lot of food stands at Potsdamer Platz offering sausages, beer, pastries and other choices. Mary found a place with crepes while Peter and I went to a stand with sausages and Frikadelle which are like a patty of meatloaf on a roll like a hamburger. All of the meats were cooking on a wood-fired grill and smelled delicious. Peter had currywurst with pommes (fries) which he liked a lot. I was really surprised that he liked the curry ketchup. He was also able to pump regular ketchup on his fries. I started to have one of the foot-long bratwursts on a brotchen (bun) but I opted for the Frikadelle which was really good. We ate at an outdoor table by the Warsteiner tap. I had a weißbier, Mary and Peter had lemonade.

Peter at Checkpoint Charlie

After we had eaten, we walked the short distance to Checkpoint Charlie, a major crossing point between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. It was called Checkpoint Charlie because it was the third checkpoint opened by the Allies and used the NATO alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie) for the checkpoints. The checkpoint was the only border crossing officially authorized for use by military personnel and diplomats. The structure at Checkpoint Charlie has been used in many movies including “The Spy Who Came in from the Cold”, “Octopussy”, and “Bridge of Spies”. We took several photos then went into a gift shop so Peter could purchase a snowglobe and a small piece of the Berlin Wall.

We caught a subway from Checkpoint Charlie to Invalidenpark near the Adina Hotel. We believe that Invalidenstrasse and the park were named because of the number of hospitals and other healthcare facilities in the area. We relaxed a bit in the room before deciding on our Saturday outing to the concentration camp at Sachsenhausen near Oranienburg, about 45 minutes from Berlin by subway. We turned in with Peter on the roomy sofa bed and us in the separate bedroom. We all went to sleep quickly and slept well.

Deutsches Museum & Allianz Arena

We were awakened around 4 am by Peter talking in his sleep. Most of it was mumbling but it sounded like he was dreaming about a field day, perhaps with school. The only parts that we understood were something about someone named “Robinson” or “Robertson” and something about a camera. We told Peter about the talking but he had no memory of it or what he was dreaming. Everyone was amused by his talking in his sleep.

Isartor

Breakfast at the Eden Hotel Wolff was excellent with the breads, cheeses, meats, eggs and fruit. We ate enough that we wouldn’t need much, if any, lunch. We had planned to visit the concentration camp at Dachau but the rail line to Dachau was under repair so we would need to take a bus. This change would add an additional hour to the two-hour trip. It would also make the afternoon trip to Allianz Arena longer.

We had Peter look though a brochure on attractions in Munich and he decided on the Deutsches Museum on an island in the Isar River. The U Bahn ride from the Munich Hauptbahnhof to Marienplatz was short and we walked around a little before we headed to the museum.  Along the way, we spotted the Isartor, a gate dating to the early 1300s when Munich was a walled city.  The 40 meter high gate tower and gate were commissioned by Holy Roman Emperor Louis IV and was restored in 1833 with the frescos added showing the victorious return of Louis IV after the Battle of Muhldorf in 1322.

Peter with VR body

After looking at the ancient gate the walk to the museum didn’t take long. Entrance to the museum was only 27 Euros for the three of us. The museum is large and has separate rooms for multiple aspects of Germany’s technology. We found the robotics room to be very interesting with many exhibits that were highly interactive for children and adults. Peter enjoyed a VR activity that had a user stand in an area and the computer produced a skeleton image that moved as the user moved. Peter waved his arms and legs, tried to pick up an imaginary box and other movements to see if the virtual skeleton of him could mimic his movements. The music room has many antique music technologies from harpsichords and glockenspiels all the way to digital technologies. Mary and I were especially interested in the theremin, symphonium, and a player piano. The room on flight was huge with aircraft going back to a Messerschmitt from the 1920s and an “Iron Annie” from the 1920s and 30s. There were cutaway engines from aircraft boxer engines, 12-cylinder airplane engines and modern jet engines. We stayed at the museum from the 9 am opening until just after noon.

The museum has several flight simulators and Peter enjoyed sitting at the controls of a jet. 

After leaving the museum we walked back to Marienplatz and looked for a lunch spot for Peter. Mary and I weren’t hungry after our large breakfast. It seemed the easiest spot was a McDonald’s Restaurant on the square. As we entered, an employee gave us a Gutschein (voucher) for a free sundae, Peter got two hamburgers and small bag of fries but wasn’t interested in the sundae so I took one for the team and ate the caramel sundae that was actually very good.

Peter and Oma at Allianz Arena

From Marienplatz, we took a light rail to Olympiazentrum, adjacent to Allianz Arena, the home field of FC Bayern München soccer team. After exiting the train, we had a 20 minute walk through a natural area to get to the stadium. We were a bit concerned that we were arriving about the same time as a group of 50 or so elementary school soccer players from Finland, Fortunately, they were not on our tour.

Peter in Allianz Arena

Since we arrived early for our arena tour and had some time, we went to the FC Bayern Museum for the soccer team. The German National team was also featured at the museum. There were trophies from European and FIFA championships, biographies of current and former players and coaches and life sized cutouts for photos. We didn’t spend a lot of time in the museum, so we went to the gift shop for FC Bayern. Peter picked out a home jersey and had the name and number of his favorite player, Luis Diaz, printed on the back. He also got an FC Bayern T-shirt and some team gummy bears. By then, it was time to meet for the tour of Allianz Stadium. Our guide was English speaking with an Australian accent as well as a German accent. We guessed that he was German but had learned English from an Aussie. The guide told us about the dome being made of two layers of a fire-resistant foil that is filled with air. Hundreds of thousands of LED lights allow the stadium to be programmed to show any color or pattern desired. 

Peter at Luis Diaz' locker

Inside the stadium, we saw the various classes of seating and the strategies for placing supporters of the guest team, reporters, dignitaries and others. We learned that the turf is replaced each season and the techniques for assuring the field is at the best for each home game. The guide took us to the locker room where we were able to take photos with the players’ lockers. We ended our 45-minute tour by walking out of the tube carrying players into the field before each game.

As we were leaving, Peter agreed to get another team jersey with his name on the back and a number of his choosing. He also got the Bundesliga patch on the arm of both shirts. This shirt would be a gift from his other grandfather. We exited the stadium, took a few photos of statues of notable players and made our way to the rail station near Olympiazentrum . The train was full but the ride back to Marienplatz was short.

It was 5 pm when we arrived at Marienplatz so we got to hear the chimes and glockenspiel again as we walked to Hofbrauhaus for dinner. This Hofbrauhaus was founded on September 27, 1589 by Bavarian Duk Wilhelm V to supply beer to the Bavarian court. Reinheitsgebot (German beer purity law) has assured high quality beer since the first days. Peter was in the mood for goulash since he was so pleased with a bite of Mary’s dinner at the Alpenstunden in Hohenschwangau.The main room at Hofbrauhaus was so loud that we looked for seating outside but there was so much smoke from diners that we didn’t want to eat there. We sat at a table in a courtyard area with three young people who were from the US. We were disappointed that the kitchen was out of goulash so Peter considered Weinerschnitzel. However, the schnitzels come with potato salad and not French fries. 

Hofbrauhaus in Munich

In Germany, it is unacceptable to ask to have a side dish changed. The only meal that came from fries was the curry wurst. To resolve, I ordered the curry wurst and Peter ordered the Schnitzel and we swapped sides, so he got my fries and I got his potato salad, Mary ordered the German meatloaf that came with potato salad. Peter had orange juice, Mary had Apfelchorle and I had a weißbier. We all enjoyed our meals and made our way back to the Marienplatz train station and up to our room at the Eden Hotel Wolf. We played a few games of Farkel then went to bed. Peter seemed to sleep soundly and only mumbled in his sleep a few times.

Everyone had a great day. It was a joy seeing Peter having such a good time. He loved exploring the exhibits in the Deutsches Museum and going to the FC Bayern locker room and field were exciting for him.

Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle

Once again, the breakfast at Eden Hotel Wolff was outstanding. The breads, cheeses, breakfast meats, cereals and juices have been excellent and the dining experience has been elegant. We chatted briefly with two ladies visiting Germany for the first time from Virginia. They were very pleasant and interested in our experiences here.

At Linderhof Palace

We left the hotel early to meet the bus to Hohenschwangau at 9 am. We caught the rail at the Hbf which is across the street from our hotel and took a train to Marienplatz in Munich’s Altstadt. We walked the short distance to the bus and checked in with the tour leader. The bus was nearly full with visitors from the UK, Australia, US, Japan and within Germany. The tour was in English, but headphones were available for those needing another language. The tour guide, Gerta, gave us a lot of information on the area as well as about Ludwig II and his family. The two-hour bus ride from Munich to Linderhof went quickly. We drove the small village of Oberammergau that has performed a passion play every ten years since 1633. When the black plague threatened to wipe out the small village, the people there prayed promising to always perform a passion play every 10 years if the village were spared from the plague. To play a role in the play, actors must have been born in the village or lived there for a minimum of 20 years.

Linderhof Palace from the rear

There was rain off and on as we approached Linderhof Palace. However, the previous times we had visited here were all in very deep snow. There was a fair amount of snow at the higher elevations in the surrounding mountains but nothing like when we were here in the past. After putting on raincoats, we took a few snapshots of the beautifully landscaped grounds around Linderhof Palace as we waited for our entry time.

Our guide through the palace was very knowledgeable and shared information about King Ludwig II and his eccentricities. The king lived in the palace for several years before and during his reign. Linderhof is not as large as homes of many monarchs, but the interior is exquisite. Rooms have intricate wood carvings, most of which are covered with gold. Custom porcelain figurines are throughout the palace and weaving depicting events from folk tales, Wagner operas or historical events are in weavings on the walls. One of the most interesting pieces was the dining table. King Ludwig II was so peculiar that he didn’t want anyone to see him eating. To solve the problem, a table was built that could be lowered to the servant's area to have the meals placed then raised for the king's dinner. Perhaps the only negative to our visit is that photographs are not permitted inside the palace. However, we took many pictures outside. Peter was very interested in the palace as well as "Mad" King Ludwig II and wished that he could have photographed more inside the palace.  As we left the palace, we purchased a small informational book for Peter at the gift shop that includes photos and descriptions of the inside of the palace as well as the grounds.

Peter's Schnitzel und Pommes

We boarded our bus again and drove the 40 minutes to Hohenschwangau where we would tour Castle Neuschwanstein. By then it was after 1 pm and we were getting hungry, so we went to Alpenstuben for lunch. This restaurant was recommended by Gerta for large portions of well-prepared food at fair prices. I had a local lager, Peter had orange juice and Mary had Apfelchorle which is a mix of apple juice and sparkling mineral water. For our meals, Peter had a Wiener Schnitzel with fries, Mary had goulash made with venison from red deer and I had Kasespatzle with cheese made in the Bavarian Alps. We all enjoyed our meals and shared bites of each other’s lunch, but Mary’s goulash was the favorite of everyone. The venison was very tender and flavorful. Peter was especially fond of the goulash and was interested in trying everything.  

Castle Neuschwanstein

After lunch, we stopped by some of the gift shops in the village of Hohenschwangau to look for souvenirs for Peter. Since he lost his water bottle in one of the museums we visited earlier in the week, he found a bottle with the FC Bayern logo which pleased him. He also got two snow globes for himself and Nicholas with Castle Neuschwanstein. He all got some postcards to send to family back home. Peter was especially happy to find a lenticular postcard showing a goldfish jumping in and out of a bowl that he thought Nicholas might enjoy.  We thought that it was very thoughtful of him to want to get appropriate gifts for his brother on the trip.

Peter and Oma at Castle Neuschwanstein

There are three primary options for getting up the mountain from the village of Hohenschwangau to Castle Neuschwanstein. The only way that we have ever taken up the mountain in previous trips is to walk up the mountain which takes about 40 minutes. Of course, there was heavy snow on the ground in all of our previous visits. A second option is the horse drawn carriage that takes about 20 minutes but only goes about 2/3 of the way to the castle. The third option is a bus that goes to Marienbrucke (Mary’s Bridge) a short distance from the castle. We had never been to the bridge, so we decided on that option.

The bridge was very crowded and looked over a very deep gorge. We walked out on the bridge and took a few snapshots but neither Mary nor Peter are especially fond of heights. We walked over to the castle taking a few photos as we walked and stood on the road just outside the castle chatting with other visitors from our bus. I especially enjoyed talking with a gentleman from Costa Rica who now lives in New Jersey working as a chemist for Colgate-Palmolive. Since our tickets were for a 4:10 pm tour we didn’t go through the gate until nearly 4 pm. A board posted the tour times that were boarding with groups leaving every five minutes.

Village of Hohenschwangau

Our guide at the castle was very good. His English wasn’t quite as good as the guide at Linderhof but he had a lot of personality and communicated the information and stories of the castle and King Ludwig II very well. As with Linderhof Palace, photographs are not permitted in Castle Neuschwanstein. The interior of the castle is not as lavish as Linderhof, but was certainly lavish. Ludwig wanted the castle to appear as a Medieval castle even though it was not built until 1886. In fact, King Ludwig II died young under mysterious circumstances before the castle was completed and never lived in the castle. Two weeks after the death of the King, the castle was purchased by the Bavarian Bundestag and used as a tourist attraction. Additions, improvements and renovations have been made to the structure in the 160 years since the death of the king.

Horse drawn carriage in the village

After the tour, we walked down the mountain then revisited the gift shops in the small village where Peter pressed an image of Castle Neuschwanstein into a 5-cent coin. We made our way onto the bus in Hohenschwangau and began the two-hour drive back to Marienplatz in Munich. Peter was hungry when we arrived at the Munich Hof so we went to one of the food vendors in the train station and bought a bratwurst and brotchen (roll) for him. The wurst was over a foot long and stuck out well beyond the roll on both ends. Much to our surprise, he really liked it. The vendor provided two small ketchup packets that were traditional tomato ketchup rather than the curry ketchup that has become so common in Germany.

Before turning in we played a few games of Farkle with Peter then turned in and slept well.

Exploring Munich's Altstadt

Breakfast at Eden Hotel Wolff

Mary and I awoke around 7 am after sleeping very well. That is not surprising after getting very little sleep on the flight to Heathrow on a Sunday night. We eventually got Peter moving by 9 am and made our way to the first floor of the Eden Hotel Wolff for the buffet breakfast. Since the flights had been so long, we didn't want to push Peter but when he awoke, he was ready to get breakfast and begin exploring Munich. Like the breakfast at most German hotels, the food quality and variety were outstanding. There were dozens of whole grain breads and pastries, three kinds of breakfast wurst, bacon and other breakfast meats, several cheeses, eggs, a dozen cold cereals, fresh fruit, yogurt and fresh squeezed fruit juice of every kind. My favorite has the be the various fruit preserves. The Himmelbeere (raspberry jam) was very good, but the sour cherry jam (Kirschkonfitüre ) was outstanding. Peter raved on the breakfast and enjoyed a little of everything. We were very very impressed that he was willing to try things before he passed judgment. Peter really enjoyed the variety of breakfast offerings and was willing to try many of the items to see if they suited him. We all ate enough to carry us through to dinner.

Inside St. Peter's Church

We returned to the room, gathered cameras, maps, passes and water bottles and put our valuables in the room safe before leaving the hotel. The travel agent had left a Mehrtageskarte for us that gets the three of us into nearly all of the attractions in the Munich area. We took the U-Bahn the short distance to Marienplatz in Munich’s Altstadt. We started our visit at St. Peter’s Church that was built in the 12th Century. The church is beautiful and contains so many ancient artifacts. I am always impressed how the US and Allied military was able to bomb German cities in two world wars and was so caring to do so little damage to historic churches. We walked the over 300 stairs to the top of the tower attached to St. Peter’s. The tower dates to the 1100s and is still structurally sound. We took a lot of photos from the top of the tower before descending and continued our walk through the old part of Munich. Before we left the church, Peter bought a refrigerator magnet with St. Peter's Church.

Peter outside the Munich Rathaus

We went through the market and saw many produce stands selling the white asparagus that is popular in Germany now that it is Spargelzeit. We walked the short distance to the Bavarian Royal Residenz where the emperor lived from 1508 until after WWII in1918. The core of the Residenz was built as a fortress called Neuveste in 1385. The Bavarian rulers from the House of Wittelsbach lived in this complex during the 400 year period. The Royal Residenz has been open to the public as a museum since 1920. Much rebuilding has taken place following severe damage during WWII.

Peter in the Bavarian Royal Residence

We have visited here several times and enjoy it more each time. The structure was nearly completely destroyed in the war but has been beautifully rebuilt, restored and redecorated. We all took a lot of photos throughout the expansive building. Peter was especially amused taking photos of his face with his new camera.

We walked back to the Marienplatz train station and caught a light rail to Olympiazentrum where we would have a short walk to the BMW museum. We used the timed passes to the BMW museum that we had purchased online and were directed to a locker room where we stowed backpacks and other personal items. The museum was really interesting with restored BMW cars and motorcycles going back to the 1920s. There were rooms with cutaway engines from cars, motorcycles, boats, aircraft and military equipment. We all enjoyed the restored BMW convertible that was used in several Elvis Presley movies. 

1939 BMW Kamm Coupe

We liked a convertible roadster from the 1930s and a three-wheeled miniature car that the driver entered by opening the front of the vehicle. There were lots of interactive displays where visitors could photograph themselves in BMW ads or driving a vintage car. There was a room dedicated to the forced laborers in BMW factories in the 1930s and 40s during the Third Reich. During a labor shortage people were compelled to labor in factories for little compensation in difficult and dangerous working conditions. After we visited all of the 22 exhibit rooms we walked across to the BMW World building. 

Peter & Oma with a 1953 BMW Isetta Knutschkugel

This large building had many BMW models on display including lots of prototypes and concept cars. Since BMW partners with Rolls Royce and Mini, there were models from those manufacturers on display as well. Since BMW World is free and doesn’t require a timed entry ticket, there were many more people there than at the BMW Museum. We walked through the displays and took a few snapshots before walking to the light rain station and returning to the Hauptbahnhof where we picked up burgers and fries from a stand in the train station. There wasn’t a huge selection at Pommes Freunde but we brought the food back to the Eden Hotel Wolff where were ate in the room then played three games of Farkel with each of us winning one game. We turned in and slept well.

Flying to Germany by way of London

Lunch at Heathrow Airport

By the time we awoke, we were near Ireland with two hours to London. The flight attendants distributed breakfast burritos and beverages. Peter didn’t want breakfast, so we watched in-flight movies until we landed at Heathrow. We had to go through security again at Heathrow but had no issues. Since the breakfast burrito didn’t appeal to Peter, we needed to find something that he would eat for breakfast, easier said than done. We walked by every restaurant at Heathrow airport and found nothing to his liking. Mary took him to a small market in the airport where she bought a yogurt and granola cup that Peter said was nasty, so he threw it out. He said that a ham sandwich might be good, so we tried that. Mary took the cheese off his sandwich as he requested but a small amount of mayonnaise remained and he didn’t want to eat it. On the other half of the sandwich, we removed the cheese and managed to avoid the offensive mayo, so he was able to eat that.

We had to laugh that Buffalo Trace has a large presence in London. There was a Buffalo Trace booth in the Heathrow airport. I walked by the booth and an employee asked if I would like a sample taste of Buffalo Trace but I assured him that I had tasted it before.

The flight from London to Munich boarded quickly and we took off for the two-hour flight. We were seated together on this flight and read our devices for the short flight. On landing at Munich International Airport, our bags were among the first to arrive in the baggage carousel. Peter spotted our bags quickly and grabbed them from the belt. We took a light rail from the Munich airport to the Munich Hauptbahnhof (main train station) using the travel vouchers that we received from the travel agent.

Our hotel, the Eden Hotel Wolff, was a short two block walk from the train station. When we arrived at 4 pm the helpful desk clerk got us checked in and gave us additional vouchers for attractions in Munich like the Royal Residence, Nymphenburg Palace and others as well as vouchers for light rail, subway and bus transport in the city for the days we would be in Munich. As with other trips that we have taken with to-europe.com, this hotel is perfectly located for access to many of the places we plan to visit as well as the train station.

Dinner at Augustiner-Keller Biergarten

Our third floor room at the Eden Hotel Wolff was very nice with a king-sized bed and a sofa bed. We unpacked and considered our choices for dinner. The desk clerk said that many locals eat at Augustiner Keller Biergarten only a few blocks from the hotel, so we agreed to give it a try.

Most of the tables were out in a beautiful tree lined courtyard and we were seated immediately despite the restaurant appearing to be crowded. Our waiter had some knowledge of English but since we had spoken with him in German, gave us German menus. We were doing fine with the German menus, but Mary wanted to confirm our choices with an English menu that the waiter offered. Peter had the Weiner Schnitzel, I had the cordon bleu and Mary had Kaesespaetzle topped with onion straws. Substituting is not generally permitted in German restaurants, so I traded my French fries for Peter’s fried potatoes. We were really proud of Peter for his willingness to try German foods to see if he would like them.  Mary had sparkling water, Peter had lemonade and I had a local bock beer. Everyone enjoyed the meal although the portions were very large. Peter was able to eat only one of the large schnitzels with his meal. The meal was not fast but in much of Europe meals at a restaurant are not intended to be rushed. While eating, diners socialize and enjoy the company of friends and family.

Dinner at Augustiner-Keller Biergarten

As light faded, we walked back to the Eden Hotel Wolff, showered and prepared for bed. We were all tired from two days of stressful travel. We had a busy few days lined up with a visit to Munich’s Altstadt in the morning and the afternoon at the BMW Museum and BMW World near the Olympic Center, site of the 1972 massacre by the militant Palestinian organization, Black September during the summer Olympics.