Leaving the Florida Keys

We awoke at the Pelico Paradise rental house for our last morning in the Florida Keys. I made tea and did my German lessons. Mary made steel cut oats for breakfast, then we finished packing and loading. We started the dishwasher with the breakfast dishes and washed a load of the towels we used for the week.

We left the house by 8:45 and drove east on US 1 driving by Castaways on Marathon Key that was recommended to us on our way west while stopping at Long Key State Park. We stopped at a McDonalds in Marathon so Cindy could get a latte, and we could all go to the bathroom. We weren’t at McDonalds long then continued on US 1 toward Florida City stopping at a gas station on Key Largo for gas which was quite an ordeal. Several pumps were out of order; the pump we used wouldn’t accept credit or debit cards. Once we fueled up, we continued through Florida City to the Tamiami Highway. We stopped at VooDoo Grill in the Micccosukee Reservation for Indian fry bread with honey. It was a nice snack since we arrived at noon. We appreciated stretching our legs and having a treat.

We drove the short distance to the Shark Valley area of Everglades National Park. Mark, Jodie, Mary and I walked out the trail along the stream while Grant and Cindy napped in the cars. While walking we saw many more alligators than the day we were here last week. We saw four clutches of baby alligators, a black snake, many basking turtles and lots of Florida gar as well as several invasive fish species. While Jodie was cautiously watching a large alligator, I couldn’t resist touching the back of her ankle with my toe. She shrieked and hopped excitedly to our amusement. We met Cindy as we were walking back and told her what we saw. After talking with a ranger, we learned that the trees in the National Park parking lot with the large green nut-like fruits are mahogany trees.

From Shark Valley, we drove to the Oasis Visitor Center in the Big Cypress Preserve where we saw dozens of very large alligators as well as gar and invasive fish that are similar to the plecostomus, commonly sold for freshwater aquaria. Mark spotted two flamingos flying overhead which made us all happy since flamingos are not common in the area. We left the Oasis Visitor Center and drove a short way to the Ochopee Post Office which is the smallest post office in the United States. We were there only long enough for a photo then continued on toward Ft. Myers.

Mary saw that Interstate 75 had a slowdown due to a collision, so we decided to stop for dinner at a Perkins restaurant while the crash was cleared away. The meal was good and about half the price that we had paid for most meals on the trip. Mary had an avocado and chicken salad, and I had fish and chips. After dinner we drove on to the Howard Johnson in Ft. Myers. The office was closed for remodeling, so we checked in at a window. The motel was unimpressive but did appear to be clean and quiet so we were okay with the rooms. We were tired and ready for bed. There was cool weather forecast for Florida tomorrow that will play a role in our plans for the day, but we hoped to go to Sanabel Island and the Ding Darling Bird Sanctuary tomorrow before having to go to the Punta Gorda Airport for our flight home tomorrow night.

Big Cypress National Park Loop Road

Like every other day, I awoke at 5:30 so I started water for tea and got the oatmeal ready. We enjoyed the rental house in Naples for the last morning as we packed up and prepared to leave for the Atlantic coast.

Great egret and turtle on Loop Road

We headed east on US 41 (the Tamiami Highway), stopping at the Kirby Storter Rest Area. We walked the short boardwalk through the cypress, where we saw many species of birds including egrets, herons, rosette spoonbills and storks. We spotted an owl but were unable to determine which species.

Hawk on Loop Road

Once back on the Tamiami, we went to the Ochopee Post Office, the nation’s smallest post office, to mail a few postcards. We took the Loop Road for 24 miles through the Everglades. This gravel road goes by many small streams and water holes where alligators and birds can be spotted. We drove along at a slow pace and enjoyed watching for wildlife.

Cuban Tree Frog at Biscayne National Park

We got back on the Tamiami, arriving at the Florida City Travelodge by 3 pm. We remembered the owner, Sunny Patel, from a previous stay at this hotel and was pleased that the motel was clean and updated. Only one of the two rooms was clean and ready, so we piled everything into Mark and Cindy’s room then left for Biscayne National Park, a short distance away. 

The majority of the park is underwater, but the volunteers at the visitor center were very helpful. Mary got a stamp in her National Park Passport, but I was unable to purchase an annual senior pass since the park does not have an entrance fee. We looked through the displays at the visitor center, walked around the property, and then started for dinner.

We had eaten at Mario’s Cuban Diner many times before and had always enjoyed excellent meals there. Mario’s is not far from our motel, so it was an obvious choice. We parked easily and got a seat immediately on arrival. Mark had a Cuban style strip steak (Churrasco), Cindy had the mojito pork (Masas de Cerdo), Mary had thin sliced pork with onions (Lechon asado), I had the Vaca frita, shredded beef with Cuban seasoning. We had tostones, Congri (black beans and white rice), plantains and other sides to share. We exchanged bits of each other’s meals and were all happy with our choices, leaving the restaurant full.

We returned to the Florida City Travelodge, checked in to our room and went for a short walk around the motel. We made mojitos back at the room and watched the end of a NFL playoff game seeing the Bengals narrowly defeat the Titans.

Everglades Shark Valley Loop

White ibis

I shouldn’t be surprised that I fell asleep at 8:30 last night. We had walked a lot and were very tired. We slept soundly until after 5 am. Mary had the leftover pork chunks with beans and rice from the Cuban restaurant for this morning’s breakfast. I had yogurt, Raisin Bran and a banana. 

We made a quick stop at Walmart for replacement gel insoles then to Publix for lunch sandwiches. We drove north on US 997 to US 41, the Tamaimi Trail. The construction on Route 997 made travel slow through the agricultural area. 

Green heron

We arrived at the Shark Valley area of Everglades National Park around 9:45. Rather than getting the $80 lifetime senior pass, I opted for the $20 annual pass. The ranger at the gate told us that we could get annual senior passes for four years then turn the passes in for a lifetime pass. 

Mark & Cindy had arrived at the Shark Valley parking lot just before us so we parked by them and prepared for a walk out the Shark Valley Loop.  Visitors can opt for a tram ride around the loop for the 7.5 miles out to the observation tower and the 7.5 mile ride back to the visitor center.  Bicycles, including tandem bikes, can be rented at the visitor center for the 15 mile ride.  We have always elected to walk the loop trail since we find that we can set our pace and see more wildlife if we are on foot.  The downside is that we have never had the time to walk the entire 15 mile round trip distance.

Great egret

Since the temperatures were still in the mid 50s, there were only a few alligators out sunning when we started our walk.  We did see a number of birds including many breeds of egrets, herons, ibis, gallinule, anhinga, and limpkin as well as many others.  As we walked along the loop trail we saw more and more alligators sunning, some even on the trail.  A number of aquatic turtles were out warming in the sun and we even saw a couple of cottonmouths and a brown (nonvenomous) water snake.  We heard a few clutches of baby alligators but saw only one baby that was less than a foot long.  There were a number of fish in the canal including many gar, mosquito fish, bass and brim, as well as some invasive fish like walking catfish, tilapia and cichlids. 

As we walked along we chatted with several groups of walkers and pointed out interesting wildlife and plants.  We were pleased to watch several anhingas and herons hunting and catching fish.  The day became beautiful without a cloud in the sky and temperatures in the mid 70s.  We were especially appreciative of the nice weather as we were hearing of record breaking cold temperatures in the mid Atlantic region.  We learned that Chicago is 25 degrees below zero.  Even in Georgetown, Kentucky we hear about subzero weather this week.  People here are complaining that the temperatures here in Southern Florida are down from the 80s that they were experiencing last week.  

Although we had packed snacks of jerky, bananas and nuts we decided that we would turn around and start back to the visitor center for lunch.  The walk back went much faster since we had seen most of the animals and wildlife in the area as we walked out.  A few more alligators, turtles and snakes had come out to sun since we started our walk before 10 am.  We arrived back at the parking lot by 2 pm and had lunch of sandwiches that we bought that morning at Publix as well as fruit, including the last of the guanabana that we bought at Robert is Here on Monday.  

Large alligator basking in the sun

We got back into our cars and drove West on the Tamiami Trail (US 41) to the Oasis Visitor Center.  The canal along US 41 at the Oasis Visitor Center was filled with alligators some of which were huge.  There were many gar and invasive walking catfish.  A black racer was in the grass near the boardwalk over the canal.  There was a helpful ranger at the visitor center and interpretative signs.  The next stop was at the Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center just off the Tamiami Trail.  The rangers were closing up as we were arriving, however, they offered to reopen long enough to give us maps or tell us anything we wanted to know.  He also told us that the swamp viewing area and bathrooms are open 24 hours.  We went back on the overlook boardwalk and saw at least three manatees swimming.  They would emerge every 15-20 minutes for a breath.  We saw two adult manatees and one juvenile at one point. 

Alligator

Continuing west, we made a quick stop at the H. P. Williams Roadside Park where we saw more alligators most of which were swimming.  We didn’t stay long at this small stop on the Tamiami Trail and stopped at the nation’s smallest post office in Ochopee, Florida to send post cards to family back north.

We arrived at the Days Inn, Bonita Springs around 6 pm and checked in easily.  I was pleased that my Wyndham Rewards points covers all of our five night stay here.  I borrowed scissors from the desk clerk to trim the gel insoles for my hiking shoes since we were doing a lot of walking this week.  

Ochopee Post Office

After quick showers and a change of clothes we went to Coconut Jack’s in Bonita Springs for dinner.  It is a casual local waterfront restaurant specializing in seafood and bar food.  Cindy had a seasoned chicken dinner, Mark and Mary had coconut shrimp baskets and I had a grouper basket. We all enjoyed our meals as we ate outside on the covered deck.  Most of the staff at the restaurant appeared to be from Eastern Europe.  Our waitress, Juste, is from Lithuania, and her trainee was obviously from Eastern Europe as well. We heard other employees speaking with obvious Eastern European accepts as well.  We retrieved our rental car from the valet, also Eastern European, and came back to the room. Mary and I watched an episode of Curse of Oak Island on our streaming DirectTV Now account before going to sleep.

Tamiami Trail & Everglades National Park

The Tamiami Trail is the name of the route, mostly US 41 from Tampa to Miami, hence the name, Tamiami.  Locally, the name is pronounced, “Tammy Yammy” Trail.  No matter where we are in South Florida, we find ourselves driving the Tamiami Trail to the Everglades.  From the west end of Rt. 41 the Everglades City part of the glades is closest but from the Miami area, the Flamingo area with the Anhinga Trail and more popular areas of the Everglades are closer.

The list below provides a set of mile markers for our favorite stops on the Tamiami Trail:

Everglades National Park Gulf Coast Visitor Center

Far less visited than the more popular Everglades NP areas near Miami, the areas near Everglades City have a lot to see and do.  The visitor center has a knowledgeable staff and a gift shop.  A couple of boat trips are available from the gift shop including the 10,000 Islands tour and the Mangrove Wilderness tour.  We took the 10,000 Islands tour when we were there in 2013.  This is a large boat that accommodates 20 or more visitors and goes through areas of the park that are more open water.  The Mangrove Wilderness tour that we took in 2016 is on a much small boat that seats only 6 visitors and goes into the mangrove areas up the streams.

Mile Marker 74 – Big Cypress National Preserve Welcome Center

This visitor center has a nice interpretative display and a small boardwalk where we have seen a manatee every time we have visited.  The roads behind the visitor center offer a number of trails for sightseeing.

Mile Marker 72 – Ochopee Post Office

This former storage shed is the smallest US Post Office in the US. 

Mile Marker 70 – H. D. Williams Wayside Park

This small roadside park is perpendicular to the Tamiami Trail and follows Turner Road for a short distance.  The boardwalk is along a Turner River Canal that contains alligators and many bird.  The parking area is usually very busy for this popular stop.

Mile Marker 59 – Loop Road Intersection with the Tamiami Trail

We were not familiar with this loop road until we were there in 2016 but it is by far one of our favorite Florida locations now when it comes to wildlife viewing.  This paved and gravel road is not well traveled with many visitors to the area unaware of the road.  We were able to get very close to many alligators, birds, turtles and even a water moccasin snake.  The 24 mile loop goes from mile marker 59 to about mile marker 40 of the Tamiami Trail.

Mile Marker 55 – Big Cypress National Park Oasis Visitor Center

If you take the Loop Road you will miss the Oasis Visitor Center.  However, doubling back or visiting on the return trip is advised.  This visitor center has more amenities than many in on the Tamiami Trail including good restrooms and a boardwalk that parallels Rt. 41.  There are usually naturalists on the boardwalk pointing attractions out to visitors.  We have seen many alligators, birds, turtles and invasive walking catfish in the water there.  A trail from the visitor center goes out through the area.

Mile Marker 40 - Loop Road Intersection with the Tamiami Trail

Mile Marker 35 – Everglades National Park Shark Valley Visitor Center

Entering the Everglades National Park at the Shark Valley or the two visitor centers south of Miami (Ernest Coe and Flamingo) costs visitors $20 for a seven day pass.  Of course a National Park Annual Pass works as well.  The highlight feature of the Shark Valley area is the 15 mile loop trail.  Although we have never walked to the end of the trail, there is an observation tower that provides a breathtaking view of the Everglades.  Visitors can rent bicycles or ride the tram around the 15 mile loop trail.  In 2016 we walked over 2.5 miles out the trail before we turned around and came back,  When we were there in 2013 we saw a great deal of bird life as well as many alligators in the first half mile of the trail.  On our 2016 trip while we saw a number of birds and a good many alligators, it was far short of what we saw three years earlier. 

Everglades National Park Ernest Coe Visitor Center

This is the first of two visitor centers in Everglades National Park in the area south of Miami.  This visitor center is near the park entrance and gets far more visitors than the other park visitor centers.  There are many rangers and naturalists to answer questions as well as gift shops.  The very popular Anhinga Trail and Gumbo Limbo Trail are nearby. Many trails depart from near the visitor center as well as the road to Flamingo that has a number of pull offs and trailheads for sightseers and hikers.

Everglades National Park Flamingo Visitor Center

This visitor center is at the end of the road in the east part of the Everglades.  There are many naturalists and rangers pointing out wildlife and sights.  There is a marina and boat trips available out into the park.  During our visit there in 2013 we were fortunate to see both American alligators as well as American crocodiles.  This is one of the few places where both species coexist.  There are several osprey nests that often have young when we are there.  We have also seen manatees and many species of birds.  Between the Ernest Coe Visitor Center and the Flamingo Visitor Center there are many places to stop for hikes, birding or photography.

Flamingo and Anhinga Trail

We woke at our usual early hour this morning although neither of us slept exceptionally well on Sunday night because we hadn’t set the air conditional cool enough.  It sounds odd to want the air conditioning cranked up in mid-January but with the heat that we have been having here on the southern Gulf Coast of Florida, the air conditioning feel pretty good at night.

We got on the road by 7:15 am after a breakfast of Kashi cereal and bananas since we were out of Wheat Chex.  We headed south down I-75 to visit the Florida Panther National Wildlife Refuge.  However, we could find no visitor center for the area.  A very large area was enclosed to provide a safe area for the breeding population of the Florida variety of pumas in the area.  Although there was no visitor center, we did find an informational kiosk at the trailhead for a hiking trail around the refuge.  Brochures and signage informed visitors of the status of Florida panthers and how the facility seeks to protect the remaining population.

We headed southeast on Rt. 41 stopping at the Ochapee, Florida Post Office to mail birthday cards to Robert and Michael Whittington and Greg Koehler.  The Ochapee Post Office is in a building that appears to be about 4 by 6 feet and is reported to be the smallest in the US.  We had passed it several times and were glad to have a reason to stop. 

We drove a little further to the Oasis Visitor Center on Rt. 41 where a boardwalk provides a view of alligators, wading birds and fish in the canal.  Since we were there fairly early, there were few alligators out because the temperature was still in the low 70s.  I guess we shouldn’t complain about the 70s when the temperatures back home are at zero with the wind chill and light snow is in the forecast.  We are perfectly happy with the 70s!

We continued southeast on Rt. 41 until we got to Rt. 997 toward Homestead.  This is one of my least favorite roads since it is 20 miles of very congested two lane road.  There is a lot of traffic going to the Coe entrance to Everglades National Park many of whom are from out of state and out of the US.  In addition, there are many trucks and tractors serving the large agricultural areas along Rt. 997 near Homestead and Florida City.  Because there is so much traffic on the highway no passing is permitted at any point on the road.  It would just not be safe to allow passing on this busy road.

We passed fields of tomatoes, beans, squash, papaya and many other fruits and vegetables.  We also passed the famous Robert is Here fruit stand.  We arrived at the entrance to Everglades National Park around 11 am and used our receipt from our entrance to Shark Valley to get us in to the park with no additional charge.  We started our visit at the Anhinga Trail and covered our rental car with one of the tarps provided by the Park Service.  Since the resident black vultures will eat the rubber wipers and moldings from parked cars, the Park Service recommends covering cars to discourage the birds.

A large group of elementary school children were at the Anhinga Trail while we were there as well as a van tour of senior citizens.  We were surprised at the lack of wildlife along the trail.  When we were here on January 31, 2013 there were many more birds and alligators.  We speculate that el Nino is keeping the coastal areas warmer and not driving the birds inland at this time.  As with other visits to the area, we saw many tourists from Europe and Asia visiting the Everglades.  After our walk around the boardwalk at the Anhinga Trail, we returned to our rental car with the rubber parts intact and had a lunch of peanut butter and crackers as well as sesame sticks and mini carrots as we drove to other trails and viewing areas in the National Park. 

We stopped at most of the attractions and walked around the interpretative trails.  We finished the trip at Flamingo where the Everglades meets the ocean.  This area has both American alligators and crocodiles but we saw neither while we were there this year.  We saw both alligators and crocodiles there in 2013.  A ranger was pointing out a manatee in the marina area and several ospreys were in the area including several on nests.

After spending some time looking around in Flamingo we started back toward our room in Fort Myers.  We knew that the drive north on Rt. 997 wouldn’t be fun but we were anxious to get back.  Along Rt. 41 we had to slow down at several places since the speed limit is lowered from 60 to 45 after dark to protect panthers than may be crossing the highway after dark.  We were disappointed to not see any panthers.

We stopped in Bonita Beach for dinner around 7 pm at a place called Big Hickory Seafood Grill House and Marina because it is on Big Hickory Pass on the north end of the island.  Mary had fish tacos made with locally caught grouper that had a key lime aioli and slices of avocado.  I had a grouper sandwich.  We both thought our meals were very good, the service was excellent and the prices reasonable. 

We returned to the Wyndham Garden Fort Myers Beach.  We hope to get together with our friends, the Johnson, tomorrow at Marco Island.  We head back toward St. Pete on Wednesday.