Wickliffe Mounds and Memorial Cross

As usual, we were awake early at the Paducah Super 8. Our room was clean and quiet, our only criteria for lodging these days. We did morning language lessons then went to the breakfast room when it opened at 6 am. We had cereal and bagels before checking out of our second floor room.

We drove to Wickliffe Mounds, an archeological site from the Mississippian culture dating from the 1100s to 1300s. Some of the mounds are thought to be ceremonial while others are burial mounds. It is believed that the site’s leaders selected the site since it provided a strategic view of the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers and was on a high bluff unlikely to flood. The museum on an excavated mound includes many pots and other artifacts of the civilization that built the mounds. No human remains were on display but were returned to Native groups who reburied them in accordance with their beliefs.

A short distance from Wickliffe Mounds is the site of Fort Jefferson, a stockade constructed by George Rogers Clark in 1780 on orders from then Virginia Governor, Thomas Jefferson. Kentucky was part of Virginia at that time until statehood in 1792. The fort was plagued by illness and constant attacks from Chickasaw Indians and was abandoned only a year later. Because of the site’s view of the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, the knoll was used as a Union post during the Civil War.

Since 1939 large crosses have been constructed at the site. The current cross was completed in 1994 using donations from the sponsorship of bricks and donations from the public. The 90 foot tall freestanding cross is constructed of aluminum and cost over $300,000 to complete. A walking trail and interpretative signage provides information on the historic forts as well as Native cultures in the area. The granite bricks surrounding the Memorial Cross carry the names of the many donors contributing to the construction and maintenance of the cross.

As we left the confluence of Ohio & Mississippi Rivers we saw a town with an interesting name. When we saw a nearby town called “Monkey’s Eyebrow” there was no doubt that we had to go there. The “town” even has its own zip code but is nothing more than a small community of a few farms. Of course, we stopped and took photos of the sign. We learned that the most likely source for the town’s name is the two small hills that are crescent shaped and were covered with brush. A local farmer remarked that the hills looked like monkey’s eyebrows and the name stuck.

On the way home, we passed through Muhlenberg County and stopped at the county seat, Central City, where we went to the plaza honoring the Everly Brothers and John Prine including statues and monuments describing their connections to Muhlenberg County. The Everly Brothers were born in the small Muhlenberg County community of Brownie before moving to Knoxville, Tennessee when the brothers were in high school. John Prine spent many summers in the town of Paradise which no longer exists. Prine’s song, Paradise, made Muhlenberg County well known to many music fans all over the world.

As we neared the Land Between the Lakes area of Kentucky, we were ready for lunch. Friends had suggested Patti’s 1880s Settlement as a great stop for a meal. We were fortunate to be seated without a wait since the restaurant is said to fill up quickly. The décor of the restaurant is intended to be a throwback to the 1880s with waitresses wearing what appeared to be feed sack dresses and items on display from the area’s rural history. Mary had a huge turkey sandwich on homemade bread and I had one of the day’s special, “sticky piggie” was a pork cutlet on a homemade bun with caramel sauce and apple slices. We both enjoyed our meals then walked around the area finding a couple of geocaches before driving back home. We got to the house by 5 pm in time to unpack, do some laundry and get ready to go to our volunteer responsibilities on Thursday morning.

Dry Tortugas National Park

We awoke at 5:30 and finished preparing for our trip on the Yankee Freedom ferry from Key West to Dry Tortugas National Park. We were to check in at 7 am for an 8 am departure. The trip was scheduled for 2 ½ hours placing us at Fort Jefferson by 10:30 am. We were able to get over $100 of deposit for the group refunded since we had National Park senior passes. On boarding the vessel, most of our group seated inside the catamaran where masks were mandatory.

Mark, Steve and I went to the ship’s bow where were had a great view of the trip in the wind of the fast moving ship. About an hour into the trip the crew asked everyone standing at the bow to take a seat in the ship’s interior due to rough seas. 

Unfortunately, Jodie and Grant both battled seasickness, but the Yankee Freedom crew was very attentive taking their used seasick bags and providing them with fresh ones along with ginger ale. They were starting to feel better by the time we arrived at Fort Jefferson.

 

We started our visit with an informational tour of the fort by Yankee Freedom interpreters. They provided great information about the fort, including a mechanism on the cannon doors that opened because of the air pressure from the cannons. Then they closed as soon as the projectile passed, making the time that the door was open only a fraction of a second. We also learned about Dr. Mudd’s time in the prison. Some say that Mudd was not a Confederate conspirator but nearly a physician fulfilling his Hypocratic Oath by treating the injured man’s broken leg. Unlike many involved in the Lincoln Assassination, Mudd was given a life sentence rather than hanging. Mudd is reported to have redeemed himself by saving many lives of prisoners and guards for the yellow fever epidemic.

 

Because so many people at Fort Jefferson were dying of yellow fever the army built facilities on a nearby key that came to be called hospital island. Medical thought at the time was that yellow fever was transmitted directly from person to person; the mosquito was not known as a vector at that time. Moving soldiers, prisoners and medical staff to hospital island did not slow the death rate due to the epidemic. When the medical staff had died, Dr. Mudd offered to assist in providing treatment to those infected. He kept meticulous notes and came to see a pattern that soldiers who were quartered on the upper levels of the fort were infected at a far lower rate than those sleeping on the parade grounds surrounded by the fort. When we suggested that everyone be moved to the highest elevation of the fort, the yellow fever abated saving many lives of prisoners and the guards subjecting him to hard labor at the fort. Even though he didn’t know it was mosquitoes causing the disease, he found a workable solution. Because of his dedication, the soldiers at the fort sought and won a pardon for Dr. Mudd after four years of his sentence.

 

After the hour-long fort tour, we returned to the Yankee Freedom for lunch that was included in the fee. We had turkey subs from Jersey Mike’s as well as two coconut cookies. Cindy got some Dramamine chewable tablets for Jodie and Grant. After lunch, Mary, Cindy and Jodie took a walk around attached Bush Key to the overlook at a rookery for the Magnificent Frigate Bird, which has the largest wing area per pound of weight. 

 

Grant’s leg was hurting so he stayed near the dock with the bags while Steve and I snorkeled in the shallow water around the key. We met up around 2:30 to board the Yankee Freedom ferry for the return trip to Key West. Mary, Cindy, Grant and Jodie got the same seats for the 2 ½ return trip. 

 

Thankfully, neither of them became seasick on the trip. Mark, Steve and I stood at the front of the bow where the wind and cool spray felt good. We stayed there until the ship entered an area of rain with about 30 minutes remaining in the trip. We arrived at the Key West ferry dock a little before 5:30 and made our way to the cars to drive to dinner.

 

We decided to return to Mangrove Mama’s since it is so close to our rental house. Our meal there earlier in the week was good, so our choice was easy. The restaurant was short on kitchen staff and waiters so we had a short wait for a table. We wanted to sit inside since there was live music at the outdoor dining area and we wanted a quieter place to talk. We were seated close to the band where it was very loud. They were actually pretty good, especially considering that they were not actually a band at all but musicians who had just met and were playing a lot of classic rock. Musicians came and went throughout the evening, and it was actually enjoyable although we would have appreciated a lower volume. Because we were outside, several diners were smoking which was unpleasant for us but we dealt with it. Everyone enjoyed their meal, mostly of local seafood. I had the blackened grouper sandwich with onion rings which was very good.

 

After dinner we returned to the house where Steve and Mark looked through photos of Mark and Cindy’s trip to South Africa last fall while Mary, Cindy and Jodie played Skip-Bo. We turned in a little after 10.